Online Book: Cruising Notes—Canada's East Coast, Chapter 18 of 32

Connaire Bay, Grand Bank, and Arnold’s Cove, Newfoundland—Unexpected Treasures

"Morgan's Cloud" in the midnight sun, anchored at the southeast end of Pasvikhamna, Finmark, Norway. Note the snow still sitting in the gully in the background, although this was mid-June.

“Morgan’s Cloud” lit by the midnight sun while anchored at Pasvikhamna, Finnmark, Norway. Note the snow still sitting in the gully in the background, although this was mid-June.

One thing John and I have learned, over our almost 20 years of cruising together, is that making decisions of where to go, or not go, based on what other people (including the cruising guides) say, isn’t always the best way to choose a destination.

For example, during our first winter in Tromsø, Norway, we told local people that we were planning to spend the next summer cruising Finnmark, up to the Russian border, and then Svalbard. A number of them responded, “Svalbard, ja; Finnmark, nei” (Svalbard, yes; Finnmark, no). Well, we heartily enjoyed both destinations.

I call these maligned, or at least undervalued, destinations “unexpected treasures”—places that we don’t have high expectations for but which turn out to be way better than we could have imagined.

This summer we ended up with three unexpected treasures: Arnold’s Cove, Grand Bank, and Connaire Bay.

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Meet the Author


Phyllis has sailed over 40,000 offshore miles with John on their McCurdy & Rhodes 56, Morgan's Cloud, most of it in the high latitudes, and has crossed the Atlantic three times. As a woman who came to sailing as an adult, she brings a fresh perspective to cruising, which has helped her communicate what they do in an approachable way, first in yachting magazines and, for the last 12 years, as co-editor/publisher of AAC.

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