Lunenburg, Nova Scotia—An Evening On The Waterfront

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Click on photographs to enlarge.

I don’t know about anyone else, but after my last three posts, two on yacht losses and one on the Adventure 40, I’m feeling like it’s time for some lighter fare.

Last weekend, after a long day updating the software that runs this website and other general AAC housekeeping chores, I grabbed my all time favourite camera and headed over to Lunenburg for a wander around. As usual there were plenty of interesting boats to look at and the early summer long evening light was lovely.

The black fishing boat above is a scalloper, in to unload. One of the few commercial fishing vessels still working out of Lunenburg.

I was talking to a local guy the other day who was telling me how tough you have to be to work on one of these boats. Not many people can take standing for hours shucking. Try and open just one scallop and then imagine doing that for several days at sea and getting paid piece work for it.

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The memorial to the hundreds of local fisherman that lost their lives at sea over the years. 1926 was a particularly tragic year when several dory schooners got caught off Sable Island by a hurricane—no long range forecasts then.

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Not sure what the story is here. (If you know, please leave a comment.) This old dragger, the Cape Chidley (northernmost point of Labrador), was tied up here for many years but now she has been painted and it looks as if someone has plans. Make quite a high latitude expedition yacht…if you can afford the fuel.

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A good looking Hereshoff schooner named Mistral, flying the German flag, with a locally built dory alongside, was in. She’s for sale if you’re interested. Looks like someone will get a much loved, and lovingly cared for, boat.

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It was the evening of the last day of the Lobster season and this boat was in to unload pots. The season here runs from late November to the end of May. Yes, that’s winter-North Atlantic. Did I mention that Nova Scotia fishermen are tough?

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Each of those pots weighs about 70 pounds. Try unloading 400 of them after a long day.

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This old Canadian Coast Guard ice breaker lay alongside the Old Railway Wharf for years slowly deteriorating and looking rather sad. But now she is all painted up and it seems things are happening—good to see.

The boat on the right is an old trawler that has been, over the years, slowly converted to a motor sailor and is intended to be used as a trading vessel in the Cook Islands. Not sure what I think about that.

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Not sure how this happened in a UNESCO World Heritage site. Just opened at the entrance to town. Oh well, you can’t see it from the waterfront and they did put up a welcome sign.

JHHOMD1-6010116An evening walk can build a powerful thirst.

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After I left the pub the sun had set.

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And the moon had risen. That’s the schooner Bluenose II.

That’s a little taste of Lunenburg (here’s another), just a few minutes away from our Base Camp, and just a two day sail from Maine. Heck, if you know how to plan it, you can even day sail here, in a pleasant week or so. Come visit, you will like Lunenburg, I promise.

And cruising Nova Scotia? Well, think Maine 50 years ago, before the crowds came and without the lobster pot buoys (now the season’s over).

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John was born and brought up in Bermuda and started sailing as a child, racing locally and offshore before turning to cruising. He has sailed over 100,000 miles, most of it on his McCurdy & Rhodes 56, Morgan's Cloud, including eight ocean races to Bermuda, culminating in winning his class twice in the Newport Bermuda Race. He has skippered a series of voyages in the North Atlantic, the majority of which have been to the high latitudes. John has been helping others go voyaging by sharing his experience for twenty years, first in yachting magazines and, for the last 18 years, as co-editor/publisher of AAC.

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