Lunenburg, Nova Scotia—In Our Own Backyard


Base Camp for Morgan’s Cloud is a cabin and mooring about 7 minutes’ drive from Lunenburg, a UNESCO heritage site, where we go regularly for groceries, the mail, the gym, etc. But we never take the time to wander around the town—our visits to Lunenburg are all about chores and errands.

After two months tied to the mooring—working on the boat, launching the new Attainable Adventure Cruising website, dealing with Canadian taxes for the first time since taking up residence here (first time John the Bermudian has ever paid income tax!), and then stripping the boat for Hurricane Earl—we finally got out sailing this past weekend. We didn’t go far! A pleasant three hour sail (there are two long peninsulas between basecamp and Lunenburg, which is why it only takes 7 minutes to drive but 3 hours to sail) and a few minutes to drop the hook, and we were there.

JHH5-11020299In the evening we dinghied to Fleur de Sel (an award-winning world class restaurant run by a young Canadian couple) in a torrential downpour, which just made the exceptional dinner taste that much better!

The next morning I sat on the foredeck and cheered on the 58th annual International (US and Canada) Dory Races  while John took photos. In the afternoon we wandered leisurely through town checking out a few of the many art galleries—the Houston North Gallery has an extensive collection of Inuit art that is well worth viewing.

The return trip to basecamp was straight into 25 knots of a northeaster, but it made for a great opportunity to crank the new engine up to full revs and punch into it. And we are pleased to report that the Perkins performed admirably, keeping the boat moving at a good clip into the sizable chop the wind kicked up.

Traveling by sailboat changed the dynamics of our relationship with Lunenburg. We felt like we had changed locations (which a 7 minute car ride doesn’t do); we were able to give the boat and engine a bit of a test (we have the punch list to prove it!); and, on our return, we felt like we had really gotten away from the chores list for a while.

I don’t think I’ll take the boat into Lunenburg next time I have to get groceries, but our little jaunt was a reminder of how wonderful traveling by boat can be and how much we are looking forward to getting out cruising again this fall.

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Phyllis has sailed over 40,000 offshore miles with John on their McCurdy & Rhodes 56, Morgan's Cloud, most of it in the high latitudes, and has crossed the Atlantic three times. As a woman who came to sailing as an adult, she brings a fresh perspective to cruising, which has helped her communicate what they do in an approachable way, first in yachting magazines and, for the last 18 years, as co-editor/publisher of AAC.

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