Most every liferaft and many abandon ship bags have emergency rations in them. But is this stuff really useful? John opens a bag to find out.
The reasons for selling our beloved boat are not what most people think. And the real reasons, that John shares, will be of interest to many who are selecting a boat to buy.
One of the biggest snow jobs in boat gear sales is the myth of the smart three-stage alternator regulator. In fact, the alternator regulators that have been available to us cruisers for about the last 15 years are not that bright…OK, they’re downright stupid. But, finally, we now have a truly smart regulator. John takes a look and comes away impressed.
It’s all good.
One of the most important decisions we need to make when buying an offshore voyaging sailboat is how much sail area, in relation to displacement, boat type, and draft, is right for our style of cruising.
If we want to verify the integrity of our boat’s keel bolts, one option is to torque them and see what happens. Sounds great, but there are risks, complications, and lots of research that needs to be done first.
If you own and sail boats offshore for long enough, the likelihood is that sooner or later you will be faced with a difficult repair or refit decision. John explores a solution that all others being considered should always be measured against.
The vast majority of used boats out there, which might be bought for a low enough price to make the cost after refit attainable for many of us, have one of two keel types that can cause big-time trouble. So the big question becomes, can we check those bolts without removing the keel? John investigates two options.
Which of the three common cruising rigs is best? Like so many things around voyaging, all three have advantages and drawbacks. John takes a deep dive that will help you pick the one that’s right for your needs and then shares his two favourites, one for offshore and one for inshore.
John applies risk management thinking to the highly ambiguous subject of keel safety and longevity on older fibreglass boats, starting off with keel types to seek out and those to avoid.
In Part 1, we analyzed the Outbound 46 hull design and compared her to recent designs. Now let’s look at other hull-related stuff, including the keel, rudder, bow thruster or not, and some thoughts on construction, all relevant no matter what boat you are thinking of buying.
There are a lot of wonderful things about cruising, but the most rewarding experiences are often the most unexpected. And, better still, this big fish story is all true.
Because we know that Attainable Adventure Cruising readers are way too smart to be so wowed by a slick interior that they forget the important stuff, John starts our review with a deep dive into the hull form of the Outbound 46. This chapter will also be useful in your search, no matter what offshore sailboat you end up with.
Starting a multi-part in-depth review of the Outbound 46 offshore cruising sailboat.
The upfront costs of buying and refitting a boat that will have to be paid before the real work gets started.
I needed a diversion from too much bad news. Here’s what I chose to do. I hope that it gives you at least a few minutes respite, too.
In Parts 1 and 2 I covered when to use shorefasts, the risks of doing so, and shorefast setups, as well as sharing some tips and tricks to make putting them in easier. Now let’s take a look at the gear Phyllis and I carry on Morgan’s Cloud, as well as what you need if you aspire to being a competent shorefast user.
Do ultrasonic antifouling systems work? Here’s an interesting real world example where one did.
In Part 1 I covered the physics that govern the loads shorefast are subjected to. Now let’s move on to some example configurations and then some fun stuff: tips, tricks and hacks that make putting in shorefasts safer and easier.
Many people assume that tying to the solid land with shorefasts is safer and more secure than anchoring. But is it really? John takes a deep dive into the facts and in the process shares some interesting things about shorefasts and how to use them.
Now we know that a lot of the rudders out there on older fibreglass boats will need extensive repair or replacement, what’s the best course of action, and what’s it going to cost us?
How to check the rudder and why that’s a vital step of any refit.
There are few subjects around anchoring that get more discussion than stopping yawing at anchor. However, once we understand why it happens, the best solution becomes obvious.
Before we start to build a refit budgeting and planning framework, we need to define the boat we will start off with as well as explore how we can correct numbers for other boats: smaller, bigger, and/or more complex.