Self-Study of Polar Bears

Phyllis has just completed a six month long self-assigned course on polar bears. In this post she shares what she has learned about this beautiful animal and the ways her new knowledge will affect our behavior when we go north. She also expresses deep concern about what we believe to be the badly flawed policies of Parks Canada.

Arctic Voyage eBook

Last year Phyllis and I made a voyage to the west coast of Greenland on Morgan's Cloud. Once in Greenland, we spent nearly a month visiting remote hunting and fishing communities so that our friend Grete, an eminent anthropologist, could continue her study of the impact of climate change on the people. That voyage, which covered [...]

An Arctic Voyage

Two weeks ago we tied to the same wharf that we left here in Charleston on April 1st—an appropriate date when you consider that our summer consisted of: Eight months. Eighty degrees of latitude (40 each way). Ten thousand miles, give or take a few. About thirty pounds of weight loss (15 pounds each). Twenty-five [...]

Why The High Latitudes, #4—The Adventure

Chapter 4 of 4 in the Online Book Why The High Latitudes

This fall, on our way south bound for Charleston, SC after a challenging Arctic cruise to West Greenland, Baffin Island and Labrador, we were met on the dock in Northeast Harbor, Maine by our friend, Phil, a rock climber of some renown. The first words out of his mouth were, “Have you got over the [...]

Arctic Voyage Milestones

I thought about titling this post “High Latitude Voyaging, It Feels So Good When You Stop” but we like to keep things positive here at Attainable Adventure Cruising (AAC) World Headquarters. Anyway, here are a few milestones that we have experienced in the last month. Trees are for me, like most of us I suspect, [...]

Cruising, The Unexpected Fun Experiences

We were tied up alongside a fishery wharf in northern Newfoundland when the roar of powerful engines brought us tumbling up from below to see two seine boats attached stern to stern by a thick line and both at full throttle. Now I have heard of truck pulls in the USA and our own Nova [...]

I first sailed to Labrador back in 1993, but even that visit was part of a cruise that included circumnavigating Newfoundland, which is enough all by itself for one summer. Since then we have visited parts of Labrador on five other cruises, but always as a way stop on the way to or from Greenland [...]

The Land God Gave To Cain Or Nunatsiavut?

[Written August 27] I believe it was the explorer Cartier who christened Labrador “The Land God Gave to Cain”. Obviously he was no fan of Labrador’s barren mountains and often gale lashed and fog surrounded shores. We made landfall at Cape Chidley, the northern tip of Labrador, two days ago after a blessedly easy crossing [...]

[Written August 22] Sixteen years ago, during one of our first Arctic cruises on Morgan’s Cloud, we were fueling in Greenland prior to leaving for Baffin Island. The crusty old Danish skipper of the coastal passenger boat was on the wharf and, after severely admonishing us for even being in Greenland on a sailboat, he [...]

As a visiting cruiser there are two ways to approach a different culture, like that of Greenland: Continually complain about the inconveniences and criticize the differences from the way of life back home, or embrace the differences and try and learn from them. Phyllis and I always try to do the latter, although I’m sure [...]

Science Project Wrap-Up

 (Click on the photographs to see them larger.) [Written July 28th] Wow! The last month has flown by! We’ve visited 12 communities (the unlucky 13th community was blocked by 7/10th ice so we had to turn back two miles out); traveled 700 miles through ice-choked waters, a lot of them sparsely and some not at [...]

Anchoring Decisions

[Written on July 30th] Last night, for the second time in less than a week, we got hit with much stronger winds than forecast, generated, we think, by the proximity of the Greenland icecap. The first time, we were hit with gale force (34-40 knots) winds, gusting higher, just after dropping Grete, our scientist, off [...]

Upernavik And North

[Written July 26th] At the end of my last post, we had just left Uummannaq Fjord and sailed north into the Upernavik region. As you would expect, things are getting more remote up here (we are presently at 73°23’ N, as far north as we are going to get this cruise, give or take 12 [...]

A Science Project, The Crew’s Role

[Written on July 24th] The science project we are engaged in has pushed Phyllis and me hard. For us, 12 hour days have been the norm and several have stretched to 18 hours. Yesterday was typical. The morning starts early for me, as usual, with analyzing the weather (more on how in a future post), [...]

[Written July 17] We have now been working on the science project detailed in an earlier post for ten days, visiting a number of villages in Disko and Uummannaq Fjords. As both of these are ice fjords and the villages were located in proximity to the hunting grounds—not on whether they had a good harbour [...]