Land people sometimes ask what we cruisers do out there in the dark in the middle of the ocean. You don’t keep going all night, do you? Yes, we keep sailing. Don’t you just go to bed? No, we have to keep a watch out at all times. What for—surely there’s nothing out there? Well not a thousand miles from land there isn’t, it’s true. Just you, the stars and the parallel inner voyage that sometimes seems more vivid and enjoyable than the practical one that you’re living.
But inshore, that’s different—there’s little time for quiet reverie amidst all the shipping, fishing vessels, oil rigs, flashing buoys of indeterminate provenance and so on. No wonder it’s so tiring compared with ocean passage making. And Brazil has got it all, especially on the stretch that takes you from the Abrolhos to Vitoria and on to Rio de Janeiro.