The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

Source For Custom Jacklines

We have long advocated for jacklines made of heavy Dacron webbing, but in recent years it has been difficult to source them already made up.

But now there is a new vendor offering custom jacklines.

One suggestion, I would not use their Jackline Assembly, consisting of a shackle and cover. The problem with this approach, aside from the added expense, is that it’s impossible to get the jackline fire-taut that way, and a jackline that’s even slightly loose increases drag risk.

Not Recommended

Instead, we recommend ordering the jackline about 6″ short and then tensioning it with a Spectra lashing as we have been doing without problems for decades.

One other point, I have not inspected these jacklines, particularly the quality of the loop stitching and the gauge of the thread—the thread gauge looks light to me in the photos.

That said, the good news is that they also sell what looks like our preferred webbing, which has been difficult to source lately, for those who wish to make up their own jacklines or tethers with heavy hand stitching.

Anyway, I’m going to order a couple of short ones for our J/109 and will report on them when received.

Thanks to member Todd for the heads up.


This is simply a heads-up about a gear source. If you have thoughts about that, please leave a comment.

But if you want to discuss person overboard prevention, or the best way to rig jacklines, please do so on the appropriate chapter of our Online Book on the subject, after you have read said chapter:

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Bill Wickett

John. Thanks for the additional listing. I just saw them in a search earlier this month. Have also book marked this one in Washington State
and this one in the UK

Grant Calverley

An alternative custom jack line set up is to use spectra or dynema line, mine is about 1/4″ (8,000 lb test) with eye spliced loops at the ends which are about 10″ shorter than the over all lengths. The last 10″ is lashed with thinner spectra line which gets it nice and tight as John mentioned above. The whole length of the 1/4* line assembly is covered with 1″ polyester tubular webbing so that the line inside the webbing does not roll if it is stepped on. Even with the dyneema stretched really tight there is still enough shock absorption in the system so it does not put a shock load into your harness and chest. Choosing between the Kong brand’s 3′ and 6′ tethers I can get to any part of my boat with minimal risk of being dragged in the water over the side. With the two tether lengths available on the Kong tether you can also clip on the new Jackline as you move forward before unclipping the old Jackline you are leaving. With a more stretchy material there is much greater risk I could end up in the water when going forward around the dodger and at the bow.

Mocking up your jacklines and trying them for functionality (getting to the mast, reefing, getting to the bow, clipping in before exiting the cockpit etc.) with some cheap rope beforehand is good idea before installing pad eyes and slicing the spendy dyneema.

A tip learned the hard way when splicing eyes on both ends of a line, Don’t cut the rope to length first! First measure say 10′ of the rope and put a mark there. 2nd create the first eye splice and note the exact measurements used in this splice so it can be repeated. (size of the eye loop, the amount of the burry etc.). Now remeasure from the new eye loop to the 10′ mark made earlier. By subtraction 10′ from this amount it gives you the amount of rope needed to add a splice. You can now figure out exactly where the rope needs to be cut to get get your accurate Jackline length.

I also just noticed Sailrite is now selling 1″ and 2″ dyneema webbing that might be worth considering.

Bill Wickett

Update on my previous comment adding Westpac Marine for jacklines. They now do not make jacklines or tethers. I contacted them and was told they let their liability insurance lapse on those items.