Yes, I know that looks wrong, but when it loads up that way works, and stays put, a lot better. Try it both ways and you will see what I mean. Hard to explain, but easy to see in practice.
Richard Ritchie
September 28, 2022 6:10 am
Have I missed something? If bowline is around rope to make a slip, not round boom itself, it is as tight as you want and comes off easily….
That’s true, but it’s amazing how often you see the bowline around the boom, rather than creating a loop as you say. But even then I prefer the timber hitch because it’s easy to untie, which is useful in a bunch of ways, for example if we want to end for end the pennant. Also, I think you will find that the timber hitch sits better on the boom when under load. Give it a try and see how you like it.
Seth Winnick
September 28, 2022 5:23 pm
A few years back, I switched from using bowline slip loops to using halyard bends, following the advice in Beth Leonard’s Voyager’s Handbook. The halyard bend is very secure and, with three wraps around the boom, it does not change position on the boom, which is key to getting a good reef in on my boat.
Yes, the halyard bend, a variation on the timber hitch is a good, maybe better, alternative, thanks. That said, I have not had any trouble with the timber hitch slipping down the boom.
Ignat Fialkovskiy
September 28, 2022 6:46 pm
bowline hard to be undone? Must confess never heard of such situation…
My guess is that you add salt air/salt water, and it changes the equation a bit.
J N Daily
October 19, 2022 5:29 pm
Hi John.
I am somewhat new to sailing so please forgive me if this questions is naive or I am misunderstanding something.
All of the reefing lines on my boat are quite old and I would like to replace them. In Running Rigging Recommendations Part 1 you suggest going to high-modulus rope for reefing pennants. Can the timber hitch that you highlited here be used with high-modulus line and if so are there any precautions to take to in order to reduce the chance of the core slipping?
Good question, and definitely highlighting a possible inconsistency in my advice that I had not thought of.
That said, I have been using the timber hitch that way for years in high mod line, without problems. I’m guessing the reason it works is that the timber hitch distributes the load over a long length of core and sheath and so the figure eight is not heavily loaded and keeps the two together fine. So this would act in the same way a splice does by having a long bury.
However, there is no question that this termination method will weaken the rope some, although probably less than a bowline, probably around 30%. Generally not a problem though, since reef pennants are usually sized for easy handling and so loaded at way less than their SWL.
Anyway, your comment highlights that we should not undersize the rope in this application and we should make sure we make the timber hitch as long as practical.
As I mentioned in my previous post, I’ve been sailing for only about six years and have much to learn. Your site is my go-to resource and has helped me immensely in trying to become a better sailor.
Why not the other way around the boom?
Hi Harald,
Yes, I know that looks wrong, but when it loads up that way works, and stays put, a lot better. Try it both ways and you will see what I mean. Hard to explain, but easy to see in practice.
Have I missed something? If bowline is around rope to make a slip, not round boom itself, it is as tight as you want and comes off easily….
Hi Richard,
That’s true, but it’s amazing how often you see the bowline around the boom, rather than creating a loop as you say. But even then I prefer the timber hitch because it’s easy to untie, which is useful in a bunch of ways, for example if we want to end for end the pennant. Also, I think you will find that the timber hitch sits better on the boom when under load. Give it a try and see how you like it.
A few years back, I switched from using bowline slip loops to using halyard bends, following the advice in Beth Leonard’s Voyager’s Handbook. The halyard bend is very secure and, with three wraps around the boom, it does not change position on the boom, which is key to getting a good reef in on my boat.
Hi Seth,
Yes, the halyard bend, a variation on the timber hitch is a good, maybe better, alternative, thanks. That said, I have not had any trouble with the timber hitch slipping down the boom.
bowline hard to be undone? Must confess never heard of such situation…
Hi Inhat,
Wait until you have loaded it really hard for days at sea. I have had to take combo pliers to bowlines after that.
well, I did 🙂
moreover, the rock climbers use it a lot, and still after repetitive high loads (10 ft body weight fall, e.g.) it always opens nicely
My guess is that you add salt air/salt water, and it changes the equation a bit.
Hi John.
I am somewhat new to sailing so please forgive me if this questions is naive or I am misunderstanding something.
All of the reefing lines on my boat are quite old and I would like to replace them. In Running Rigging Recommendations Part 1 you suggest going to high-modulus rope for reefing pennants. Can the timber hitch that you highlited here be used with high-modulus line and if so are there any precautions to take to in order to reduce the chance of the core slipping?
Thanks JD
Hi JD,
Good question, and definitely highlighting a possible inconsistency in my advice that I had not thought of.
That said, I have been using the timber hitch that way for years in high mod line, without problems. I’m guessing the reason it works is that the timber hitch distributes the load over a long length of core and sheath and so the figure eight is not heavily loaded and keeps the two together fine. So this would act in the same way a splice does by having a long bury.
However, there is no question that this termination method will weaken the rope some, although probably less than a bowline, probably around 30%. Generally not a problem though, since reef pennants are usually sized for easy handling and so loaded at way less than their SWL.
Anyway, your comment highlights that we should not undersize the rope in this application and we should make sure we make the timber hitch as long as practical.
Thanks so much, John.
As I mentioned in my previous post, I’ve been sailing for only about six years and have much to learn. Your site is my go-to resource and has helped me immensely in trying to become a better sailor.
Ho J N,
That’s great to hear, thank you!
How is this knot for noise? Our reefing lines are really loud from the bowline rubbing on the boom.
Hi Ray,
I think it should fix that since it tends to stay tight and I have never had a noise problem. Give it a try and see.