Going Up The Mast—Part 2, Fundamentals

In Part 1, Matt did an excellent job of bringing building site safety procedures and his engineering training to bear on safe mast climbing.

In this, Part 2, I will cover things I have learned in some 50 years of going up masts, as well as highlight several important things I learned from Matt's post and the comments thereto.

Yes, that's right, despite climbing masts since before Matt was born, I learned from him (and others), and I'm thinking that might be the most important point I will make in these articles, particularly since I noticed a disturbing note of complacency in some of the comments to Matt's article.

Let's dig into my present beliefs about mast climbing.

  1. Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
  2. Don’t Forget About The Sails
  3. Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
  4. Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
  5. Reefs: How Many and How Deep
  6. Reefing Made Easy
  7. Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
  8. Reefing Questions and Answers
  9. A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
  10. Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
  11. Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
  12. 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
  13. Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
  14. Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
  15. Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
  16. Sailboat Deck Layouts
  17. The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
  18. UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
  19. In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
  20. In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
  21. The Case For Hank On Headsails
  22. Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
  23. Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
  24. Gennaker Furlers Come Of Age
  25. Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
  26. Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
  27. Rigid Vangs
  28. Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
  29. Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
  30. Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
  31. Keeping The Boom Under Control—Boom Brakes
  32. Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
  33. Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
  34. Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
  35. Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
  36. Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
  37. Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
  38. Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
  39. Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
  40. Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
  41. Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
  42. Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
  43. Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
  44. 12 Great Rigging Hacks
  45. 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
  46. Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
  47. Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
  48. Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
  49. Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
  50. Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
  51. Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist
  52. Going Up the Mast—Part 1
  53. Going Up The Mast—Part 2, Fundamentals
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Kevin Towers

The video you linked was VERY enlightening. I don’t think they mentioned in the video, but the slings they were breaking were both rated for 22kN (4945 lbs). This reenforces your recommendation for doubling the minimum breaking force to 10,000 lbs.


Hi John,
Thanks for the climbing article. Yours and Matt’s are very informative and will probably prevent some accidents!
I whole-heartedly agree with your advice to not try specialized climbing equipment without training. Many years ago I tried that and fell, fortunately not far enough to prevent this sentence from being typed. (I did have to get a few stitches though.)  As I wanted to be able to maintain my rig, I needed to learn to climb the rig alone and safely. I engaged a local rigger who climbed masts solo for a living and he taught me several important things which you and Matt have described including: use a knot (doubled figure 8, halyard shackle to lazy loop) not the shackle to connect, and have an independent backup that you take with you up and down (short line tied between harness and a fixed 2nd halyard with prussik or climbheist). He wore a climbing harness inside the bosun chair. I did that too for several years. I tried just the climbing harness and agree about how uncomfortable it becomes within minutes. A friend who did SAR suggested I try a cushy harness like they use, and I got one of these: https://www.cmcpro.com/equipment/atom-sit-harness/  I have hung in mine for more than an hour for several mast jobs and, while not as comfy as a padded bosun chair, doable. And the harness offers plenty of ways to hang a bucket or tools from the harness. I learned quickly to never wear shorts when climbing, and always wear shoes (I like leather moccasins, like the old topsiders). 
The only big difference between what is described in these articles and what I was taught is the means to ascend and descend: I use what the rigger showed me which is a block and tackle system. In my 30’s, I used a 3:1, but now in my 60’s, I use a 4:1 (and even with that I have to stop and rest before the 2nd spreaders). The upper block is a double (with becket for 4:1). The lower block is a ratcheting single (double for 4:1) with a ratchet release. I ascend with the ratchet engaged and when I’m where I need to be I tie the hoisting line to my harness with a doubled half hitch. To descend, I disengage the ratchet and feed the hoist line thru the carabiner attaching the tackle to my harness, using the carabiner as a descender. For mast head work, I added two steps a few feet below the top, and, after tying off to the mast, stand up in them while working up there. Here’s pix of my old 3:1 block and tackle: https://photos.app.goo.gl/t1cg9ob2tHxXqp8b6
I’ve felt safe using this type system for 30+ years, but I’m not an expert in these matters and in no way am advocating my way versus the means described here. The main disadvantages of the block and tackle system that I see are: it depends solely on upper body strength, and once 2-blocked at the top, you are a bit further from the top. I’d welcome your and others thoughts on the block and tackle method, at least for the benefit of anyone else who sees people using that technique. I’m motivated by the knowledge that the ~”it’s always worked” argument was used against adopting seat belts and air bags which turned out to have saved many lives.

thanks gain,


Steven Hodder

Plus one for the “sit harness”. A friend of mine who is a timber framer and has spent many eight hour days suspended on the side of historic train trestles uses them daily in his job. I’ve also used it to go work up the mast and they’re quite comfortable to work in.

Peter Holt

Hi Steve,
Just checking I understand currently, do you hoist the top block to the top of the mast before ascending and have the 4 long lines hanging down to the bottom block?
Guessing you need mast height X 4 of rope? I’m just wondering what happens if the rope gets snagged around something at deck level while you’re on the way down, would you then be stuck up the mast?
If I had 100 odd meters of rope in a pile on the deck it feels like it would almost certainly get tangled or snagged.

Dick Stevenson

Hi Peter,
I know at least one rigger, who works alone, and a couple of cruisers who use this method without problems. The line just lies down on deck well behaved. My experience is that a pile of line, not messed with, always comes off the pile as easily as it lays down: it is when we crew try to “straighten” up the “mess” that tangles emerge.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Peter Holt

Ok, I guess that stands to reason. It would be a great system if it worked, I’d need to try it to believe it though (with someone on standby). Rope doesn’t like me, I only have to look at it the wrong way and it gets itself in a tangle. Especially 3mm mousing lines, they’re the work of the devil.

James Evans

Steve’s system is very similar to the one I used singlehanded for years, except that I left the ratchet engaged for descending ( why disengage? The rope still runs easily enough and it provides an extra measure of control). The addition of a carabiner is a good one. And John’s recommendation never to use climbing gear on which you haven’t been trained is a VERY good one.


James, you are correct, with a ratchet block, there is no need to disengage for descent. Thanks for pointing that out. My example of the 3:1 above actually uses a jammer, which works like a clutch, and must be disengaged for descent. My description above should’ve distinguished between ratchet and jammer blocks, and I should’ve used the term jammer in describing the 3:1. The jammer allows one to hang without tying off or holding onto the hoist line. With a ratchet block you have to always hang onto the hoist line, or tie it off. I actually use a ratchet block in my 4:1 system. Both work.

Barry Z.

I’m a climber. I was taught the following method by an IRATA -certified instructor and practiced from a tree branch under supervision with various simulated gear “failures”.

Key safety points in the method are redundancy and not falling any distance. I use two halyards (they are not dyneema). If a knot is used it is always the standard figure 8 used by climbers backed up by a simple knot. I climb up one halyard using a hand ascender, grigri and foot loop. This is a standard method. I am connected to the hand ascender by a 3 foot piece of line. I also have a shunt clipped into a second entirely separate halyard. The line from my climbing harness to the shunt is also about 3′ long. As I climb I slide the shunt up. As I descend I lower the hand ascender down to the grigri. I also lower the shunt about 2 feet. Then I lower myself using the grigri leaving some slack in the line connecting me to the shunt. Repeat until down. The process is time consuming! The maximum shock load arises from a fall of no more than 2 – 3 feet. I.e. the length of the line from my harness to the shunt. As is standard practice; I let myself “fall” when standing on the deck by simply dropping. I test both lines. That is about the extent of the distance I could ever fall.

For me to fall, I would have to lose the grigri and ascender on one line and the shunt on the other. Both halyards would have to fail following a drop of a 160lb person of two feet. It would be pretty sad to be sailing with halyards that could not take that strain.

If I absolutely had to go up the mast in heavy weather I would tie a line around the mast to keep me from swinging away from the mast. I would wear a helmet as well.

This is an outline only. You will want an instructor to demonstrate how to use carabiners properly and to back up the grigri and shunt. Line diameters should be within the specs for your hardware. All climbing gear should be stored to avoid UV. A serious fall means your gear should be replaced.


Arne Mogstad

I tried to find and link to the video you linked to from DMM in my comment for Matt’s part 1, it is a great and sobering video!

Regarding helmets: I usually recommend the “deforming-shell” type helmets (as the ones you two wearing in the pictures), as opposed to the “absorbing-styrofoam” type (like a bicycle helmet). The Styrofoam one is more sensitive about storage, and will only protect you from one blow. They work by being destroyed on impact. This means if you drop it, sit on it, or take a hit, you have no helmet anymore. The weight savings are negligible for this use anyway. Also, having hooks for a headlamp is nice. And choose one with a chinstrap that you can actually operate, as there are many interesting solutions out there.

Regarding harnesses: Big-wall harnesses are designed to hang and work in for days. They are pretty beefy and comfortable, and work pretty well for this use. Probably not the same as a bosuns chair (I have never tried the chair), but I have spent a lot of time hanging in those harnesses. SAR and work harnesses are often in the same category.


Arne Mogstad

They are excellent helmets! For those with limited space (and deep pockets), Edelrid makes a foldable helmet called “Madillo” that takes up much less space. However, a harness or something can be stored “inside” the helmet, so it is usually not wasted space anyway.

Dan Perrott

I wouldn’t want to work in my climbing harness for any length of time. I also would never feel a need to back it up with anything. (It may be a backup while climbing but it isn’t while abseiling or being lowered back down).
A note on choosing bosun’s chairs is to be careful with the width, Especially for women (often called for to be winches up due to lower weight) and larger gentleman (generally the last choice). Make sure they are wide enough. I can sit comfortably in ours but my girlfriends hips make it very uncomfortable for her.

William Murdoch

Dan Perrott said, “I wouldn’t want to work in my climbing harness for any length of time”.

I too found the couple of climbing harnesses I tried to be a bit uncomfortable to sit in motionless for any length of time. Back then there were tree sitters in the US Northwest protesting logging operations. They were hanging in trees for weeks or months at a time. I called, asked what they were using, and bought a New Tribe Saddle. It is now called the Basic Saddle and with stiff triangular pads in the leg straps is a sort of a cross between a bosuns chair and a climbing harness. It is made to sit in. I hang a canvas bucket on one side, hang a tool pouch on the other, and put a lanyard around the mast. I’ve had it for twenty or maybe twenty-five years now.

Eric Klem

Hi William,

It is funny that you mention a tree harness as reading Matt’s and John’s articles I keep wondering if arborist rigging is not more similar to our use case than climbing. My understanding is that they spend a lot of time hanging in their harnesses and are climbing things that move much more than a rock wall. I have seen a few of the local tree service trucks picking up line at the marine store although not recently and I know that at least Samson, Yale and Teufelberger all make products for both industries.

Of course, arborists might not be as niche as riggers but they must be a pretty small market.



Arborists and telecom tower workers are probably the two trades whose situations are closest to what we do up the mast.
People come in a lot of different shapes and sizes, so it’s very important to test-fit any harness, chair, saddle, etc. you’re considering for long duration work — and to do so under load. Comfortable on the ground is not the same thing as comfortable when hanging from the halyard.

Brian Russell

Glad to see someone else advocating for helmet use! Ditto on the Harken bosun chair-ours has served well and has nice deep pockets and lots of d-rings for tethered tools. I welded some simple tether rings onto various wrenches and vise-grips and drilled holes through screwdriver handles.

As a safety line I hoist an 11mm Static climbing line on a spare halyard and tie it tight to the mast base. Static lines have a much grippier surface texture than Dynamic lines.Then I wrap a short high modulus webbing climbing sling into a Klemheist sliding knot onto the static line.

When I’m ready to go aloft I sit in the chair, which is knotted to a dacron halyard, attach the Klemheist sling to my Black Diamond climbing harness with a locking carabiner and away I go up as Helen hoists me up with the mast winch-assisted by our cordless Milwaukkee drill motor. With one hand I slide the short Klemheist sling up the static line as I go. It’s very easy to slide in either direction, but when loaded in the down direction (Unlike the Prusik, the Klemheist is assymmetrical) it grips the static line instantly. I can remove my hand from the Klemheist at any time and it will instantly grip should I begin an unplanned descent. The potential fall distance is only about 16″/400mm.

This method puts the climber in control of the safety and the winching crewmember is not responsible keeping 2 lines tailed. If I became incapacitated while aloft for some reason (not sure how since I am wering a helmet)they could lower me by simply lowering the static line’s hoisting halyard.
The likelihood of dropping anything on the winching crew while ascending or descending is slight-especially with the deep pocketed Harken. Of course, they are well clear when I am working. I feel the risks associated with rigging a block system to redirect is greater.

By the way, a Klemheist is much simpler and more trustworthy than a rolling hitch when, for example, unloading an overridden sheet winch. It cannot be shaken off the line. I also use very small ones wrapped on shrouds to support a temporary sun canopy- almost as useful as soft shackles!

Arne Mogstad

Hi. A prusik (or klemheist or which ever knot you use) are not a good idea to stop a dynamic fall. If it does not lock up immediately, it will start to generate heat, and weaken/melt. They also work by pulling a part of the rope tight over another part of the rope. This also generates heat and wear, which also weakens it. I would just simply not use a klemheist as a fall arrest system. And in the static use described here, it is as John points out, going to maim you. Or worse, break, and you fall down on deck, hitting a spreader and a boom on the way to “soften” the fall.

To not be all negative, I would highly recommend upgrading to a device specifically designed for this use, which also incorporates a “screamer” (shock absorbing sling). That is a sling that is sewn in a way that it will rip open to absorb the shock load. The Petzl “ASAP” with an “Absorbica” or “ASAP’sorber” is an example of a device that does this, and is designed for this exact usage on static rope systems. I suspect John have this covered in part 3.

Even 10cm falls on a static system is surprisingly painful, and the loads are incredible.

Hope this was helpful and not just negative.

Kindly, Arne

Dick Stevenson

Hi John and all,
I am not sure how relevant this is to belays and the knots being referred to used for belays, but I know I find HM lines impressively slippery. For example, with my Dacron line I had no trouble raising the main to pretty much full hoist. When I got a HM halyard, bare handed, my grip slipped ½ way up. With gloves on I can get most of the way.
This is a long way of saying that I would be very wary of any sliding/stopper knot over a HM line: perhaps a Starzinger icicle hitch, but even there. Much safer some kind of mechanical belay like a Petzl ASAP in my thinking.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Brian Russell

I agree, Dick. A HM line, especially an uncovered one is totally inappropriate for a safety line used as I describe, which is why I only use the special Static climbing line, which features a special cover weave that has much more grip than any other cover weave.


The slipperiness is a probably-unavoidable consequence of the chemistry that’s needed to make high-strength high-modulus fibres.

Hoisting a static line to the masthead, and clipping your rope-gripping gadgets onto that, is (I think) a far better idea than clipping those rope-gripping gadgets directly to the halyard.

Brian Russell

Thanks, Arne, good information! I have several different ascender devices. I have found them clumsy to use and they severely scratch the anodizing on the mast. This ASAP device looks better in that it does not require a hand to move it along the rope, correct? I will also certainly investigate the “shock absorbing” sling as a component of the system. I have fallen several times, once doing tree work, the other installing a metal roof on my house-no fun, but both times a climbing harness kept me from going “splat”! For now, my klemheist will have to suffice, in fact I am going up today for pre-passage inspection. Next stop-St. Vincent!

Jorn Haga

Hi everyone,
Does anyone have a good recommendation on a cruising guide for brasil, an updated one.
Any help is highly apprevciated

Jorn Haga

Terence Thatcher

I had read some time ago that knots were better than mechanical fall arresters, which could break., I have always used a prussic on a static line, with no more than 12″ slack. I look forward to Part 3 to learn about the mechanical devices. I use a Brion Toss bosuns chair/harness. Expensive, but comfortable. I have never used a separate safety harness. Just made sure my safety line was attached to the bosuns chair. I guess I will need to revisit that. I take it that is to protect against the chair giving way?


Yes. Failure of the bosun’s chair itself is one of the cases we must protect against. In a “just clip the bosun’s chair to the halyard and winch away” system, the stitching of the chair’s webbing and seams is often the weakest mechanical link in the system, and is also among the hardest things to non-destructively verify.
The Brion Toss system, as I understand it, is compliant with the relevant OSHA standards, and is designed rather differently than a bosun’s chair. From what I can tell, it looks like the backup load paths are built into it; i.e. a failure of any single component of the system should cause the person’s weight to be transferred to a different load path within the same harness. But you should satisfy yourself that this is true for whatever system you use, rather than taking the word of someone on the internet.

Dick Stevenson

Hi Matt, John and all,
I have used a Brion Toss bosun’s chair/harness for 3+ decades or so.
I have spent many hours at a time in the harness waxing and cleaning the mast when we did not remove the mast for the winter as well as managing many other projects from the chair over the years and, while I would not say I was completely comfortable at the end of my time aloft, I was just fine. This may be, in part, as there is ample padding in the places that count and there are adjustments possible so that the leg supports can be lengthened or shortened to hit the leg in a good place. There are tool bags and ample places to fix tools and carabiners to facilitate the job at hand.
I give it inspection before every hoist and have never found any problem: stitching or otherwise.
I have always felt myself to be perfectly safe in the BT chair, even when fooling around hanging upside down which is probably not recommended, but was fun.
I was unaware that the design may incorporate a harness within a harness as an independent back-up as Matt suggests, but it makes sense as there are two independent rings one can tie onto: I always catch both.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Peter Holt

Interesting stuff, as usual way more in-depth and informative than other sources. Looking forward to part 3, although I suspect that, as with a lot of your articles, it will prompt the purchasing of another piece of gear :/

On the subject of block loading (and I only know this because I was speccing a mast base block recently)

Harken have a handy table:


If this is to be trusted the load factor on the block increases at >60 degrees of line deflection.

Cyrille Rio

Glad we aren’t far of, while need to be extra careful with the fall prevention halyard slack…
one other tool we always use: the Sena SPH10 Bluetooth Stereo Headset. Makes communication on managing up and down much easier. Of course headset is secured/teathered to the harness…

On a side note, the plastimo chair isn’t too bad. A bit less bulky than the harken, and it goes back into a nice large pouch that doubles up as a tool box you can clip on. The attachment point is I think also lower than the harken, meaning it might be easier to get yourself higher at the mast top, if for example you need to drill the top mast flat head.