The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

Tips, Tricks & Thoughts:

Maintenance

  • Backing Plates Must Be Parallel

    As you might have noticed, I have become a bit fixated lately on how bolted joints work. And now I understand more about the subject (thanks Eric and Matt) I see poorly put-together ones everywhere I look.

    This would be bad enough if it was limited to stupid stuff I have done in my 60 years of fixing boats, or even dumb stuff I see in boatyards, but, sadly, that’s not the case.

    I would bet that a significant number of the gear failures, and a huge percentage of the leaks on boats are because the builder completed a bolted joint poorly. And that sucks when we consider that it’s bolted joints that hold fin keels on, and most every fitting on the deck and many on the rig.

    While I would guess the most common bolted joint sin among yachties, yards, and builders is not using a properly calibrated torque wrench every time a bolted joint is put together, as well as checking the torque at least a couple of times afterward to take up creep, there’s another error that I have found in a couple of places on our J/109 that I suspect is all too common:


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  • Time To Torque The Keel Bolts

    Like most owners with a new-to-us boat that is far from new, I spent the first couple of winters focusing on stuff that just had to be fixed.

    This winter I have had the luxury of moving on to things that need doing, but are not immediately obvious. In this case torquing the keel bolts.

    Test

    Out of interest, before removing the nuts, cleaning them up, lubricating (or not1) and then torquing to specification, I immediately torqued each nut with the wrench set to one third of specification.


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