A couple of weeks back I wrote about how jib in-haulers have pretty much removed the need to carry overlapping genoas on a J/109, like our Morgan’s Cloud.
Several members expressed interest in learning more, so here are a few photos and some notes on how I set up our system.
Why In-Haul?
But before you read on, if you have not read that article, or at least the part on in-haulers, please do so now as I won’t be duplicating the reasons for in-hauling that I shared there.
Not For Everyone
Before we go any further be aware that in-haulers are generally only useful on boats with non-overlapping jibs (or staysails on cutters) that sheet inside the shrouds since the sheeting angles for overlapping jibs are usually constrained by the spreader length.
And even if an in-hauler was desirable for a genoa, say in cases where there are no tracks and the genoa is sheeted to the rail, they would probably not be practical because of the trip hazard.
For Sail-Trim Geeks
The other thing to be aware of with in-haulers, is that to get the best out of them we have to trim the jib by eye, since the effects of adjusting them are pretty much infinite when used in conjunction with halyard tension, sheet car position, and sheet tension, so marks to achieve repeatable trim do not work well.
So for those who don’t get pleasure from constantly fiddling with sail trim (no shame in that), a numbered track together with sheet cars that can be easily adjusted fore and aft under load, with a multi-part tackle, may be a better bet.
The Details
With that disclaimer out of the way, here are a few tips for fitting in-haulers.
Excellent photos and notes thanks John,
Our 103% jib has retrofitted forward tracks which are well positioned once the TWS hits 15 knots. And we permanently run twin sheets for outboard sheeting any time we ease off the wind. So I wonder if I could experiment re-routing a windward lazy sheet to in-haul the jib between 10 and 15 knots breeze, using the windward winch to adjust the sheeting angle, whilst guarding against chafe – any thoughts please?
We do mostly walk inside our shrouds which are in the middle of the side decks, and also where our jack-lines run. Any permanent solution may need to wait until we buy our next headsail, which could then be non-overlapping.
Interesting to see if we can replicate the benefits seen on the 109, in a bigger and heavier masthead sloop. AND cool to have new things to experiment with. I’ll try and remember to report back – it’s our winter so getting the right test conditions may take a while…!
Hi Rob,
Yes, you can definitely experiment with inhaling using the windward sheet. In fact that’s exactly what they did when racing in the J/109 class up until the measurement committee allowed in-haulers.
Another application is to provide on-the-fly fore-aft adjustability to pin-style jib cars without converting to towable jib cars.
Install a second plain car at the extreme forward end of the track (or a pad eye to the deck if there is no track), add a small block or low friction ring, and then set it up just as John describes. The tackle will pull the lead down rather than in. On my boat the leads were already as far inboard as I would ever want.
I did this on more F-24 to great effect, since the low footed jib is very sensitive to fore-aft lead position. If you want twist in the jib or to roller furl the jib and maintain any control over twist, moving the lead forward is vital. But moving a pin-style car in a breeze, with a flogging jib, is a pain even on a small boat. The floating leads described by John make it a breeze.
This can also be accomplished, to a more limited extent, by tightening the Barber hauler and the outhauler at the same time. The two leads create a triangle, so in principle, you should be able to possition the lead anywhere in that 2-D space. However, this may require a bit more purchase, depending on the forces involved and how you set it up. Even on my F-24 this can require a good tug when the wind is up.
My fore-hauler and out-hauler are on a continuous line. For me it reduces clutter in the cockpit, they are near each other, and often you are adjusting both at the same time anyway. As one goes in, the other goes out.
Lots of options! I’ve fitted some variation of this to every boat I’ve ever owned, from beach cat to cruising cat to trimaran. It’s nice to get the jib curved just the way you want it.
An excellent, simple idea.
Hi Drew,
Lots of good ideas in the same vein, thanks.
Hi John and all,
For a basically well performing cruising boat:
Could someone give me an estimate, or measured data, on the difference an in-hauler makes in boat speed and/or pointing ability?
I am also curious about the difference, on average, an experienced, but not superb, helmsperson makes over a decently, but not perfectly, calibrated autopilot. Also, over a windvane.
Thanks, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
Hi Dick,
Depends a lot on the boat, and most of all on how efficient the keel is. On a J/109, particularly in light to medium air, the difference is substantial, I would guesstimate at least two degrees better pointing on each tack, for no, or very little drop in speed, so much better VMG.
For other boats to judge if it’s worth doing we need to first measure the existing sheeting angle. If it’s more than about 10 degrees it maybe worth experimenting, even on a boat without an efficient fin keel.
As to a good helmsman over automated steering, I’m measurable faster than our top end B&G H5000 as long as I really pay attention and lock in, but as soon as I’m tired or distracted the autopilot is better. But that’s a high end system, most any decent helms-person should be able to sail rings around the normal cruisers autopilot. For example, on the MCCurdy and Rhodes Phyllis could always tell from below when I took over from the autopilot. Vane gears if well set up can be pretty good too, but no match for a good person on the helm.
More on all this here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2023/03/26/autopilot-buyers-guide/
Hi Dick,
Another set of gains on an X4.3 (same type as J/109) using in-haulers. I second the 2-3 degrees in pointing in light to moderate air that John estimated, on flat water. Not only do we not loose Boat Speed as we point higher, we tend to gain a decimal or two. Also because knowing that we are trying to get that little extra really gets us in fine trimming mode, and there are then gains from all the other tiny adjustments that we chase once rigging and using the in-hauler has given the signal.
I would insist on the outboard lead, where gains are much readily apparent, in the order of 0.5 to 1.0 kt. It is a waste not to use that, and it requires little gear, knowledge or experience, contrary to the in-board lead that I find more demanding.
We also have an H5000 Autopilot that we have studied extensively. I regularly see measurable one-minute average-speed improvements (0.1, 0.2 kt) with the Autopilot on, primarily because of consistency and steadiness. It is so easy to drop the speed if you are not very concentrated. At night, there is no question the autopilot is superior to my steering, even if we can see stars. So that says more about my average skills than about the Autopilot’s performance. We beat the Autopilot when anticipation and small temporary adjustments pay off, for instance in waves.
For offshore sailing however, my primary criterion is not whether the Autopilot is a little faster than I am. The first attribute is whether I trust it not to put us in a difficult position if I am down below, dozing off for 10 minutes, attending to a critical task etc. On that front, I have struggled for several years, until I found a solution, deeper in the settings, that I modify as a function of point of sail, wind strength and sea state. The recent H5000 Autopilot update released in June by B&G finally addresses some of the concerns I have had, but I still haven’t had the chance to test it in anger to determine whether I would trust the Autopilot in a bind, especially when TWS > 20-25 kts, TWA > 100-110°, waves >1-2 m on the quarter (that’s the weak spot I have identified and reported to B&G). Until then, if I need to sleep / work on the bow etc. in such conditions, I will change course to ensure I am in a configuration where I have full confidence in the Autopilot’s abilities.
No experience with a wind vane.
JL
Hi JL,
I really appreciate the thorough response and the field experience you share. I am in the “lazyish” part of the continuum among cruising sailors, but always very interested in what others do and what the possibilities are for my improvement. Thanks, Dick
Nice setup, thanks.
clever that it can be set for both sides at the same time.
that should work well for the Hboat on the lake where I can’t get the sheet quite where it needs to be.
those low friction rings are genius
Hi George,
Glad it was useful.