Arctic Voyage 2011 in “Morgan’s Cloud”

This is the first post describing our Arctic science trip on Morgan’s Cloud in 2011, starting with our arrival in Nuuk, Greenland, where we found a lot of changes from our first visit 16 years ago.

Arrival at Aasiaat, Greenland brings back memories of a winter visit in 2010…that trip utilized airplanes and skis, though home was still a sailboat.

Greenland, though very cosmopolitan in so many ways, is still the remote north, making compasses and electronic charting less reliable.

Many things have changed in the north, and wildlife has definitely been affected by climate change and other pressures, but sailing close to a pod of humpback whales is still one of the most incredible of life’s experiences.

Greenland’s beauty still exhilarates despite the exhaustion and vigilance of dealing with marauding icebergs and insecure anchorages.

The scientist onboard “Morgan’s Cloud” gives her reading of what is happening in Greenland in the wake of climate change.

The crew of Morgan’s Cloud attend a confirmation party and experience a crash course in cultural differences.

The scientist visits villages in Disko and Uummannaq Fjords and the crew of “Morgan’s Cloud” experience climate change firsthand.

Managing a sailboat in ice-filled waters with insecure anchorages on a schedule…a recipe for stress!

“Morgan’s Cloud” reaches her furthest north for this trip, in the Upernavik region, which takes the vigilance up a notch with more extreme weather and less accurate charting.

A discussion on when, and when not, to use shorefasts when anchoring in difficult conditions.

What to southerners is a hostile environment, is home to Greenlandics…albeit a rapidly changing home, as a summary of the scientist’s findings confirms.

As a visiting cruiser there are two ways to approach a different culture like that of Greenland: Continually complain about the inconveniences and criticize the differences from the way of life back home, or embrace the differences and try and learn from them.

Baffin Island: “You might as well put a pistol to your head and pull the trigger”.

Labrador: The Land God Gave to Cain or Nunatsiavut (Our beautiful land)? The crew of “Morgan’s Cloud” make their decision.