Questions About
Sailboat Design and Selection
Used Boat for the High Latitudes
(05/2007)
Question: We are looking for
a used boat to buy, and wonder if
you could give us any pointers. We
plan to cruise the high latitudes
and circumnavigate with two
people. The features we are
looking for in a boat are:
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Full keel
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32-37 feet long
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Cutter rig
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Over 11 foot beam
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Answer:
If you were planning a standard
tradewind circumnavigation, I
would say that any good production
fiberglass boat should be
adequate, but since you have added
the high latitudes to the
criteria, this will substantially
narrow the field. Generally, I
would be looking for a metal boat,
preferably aluminum, although that
is not to say that you must buy a
metal boat (more
on aluminum boats).
I would also suggest that you
modify your selection criteria in
several ways: First, drop the
length and beam criteria and
instead set a minimum displacement
that you will be satisfied with.
This change will give you more
options and reduce the risk that
you will buy a boat that is too
short and beamy to be comfortable
offshore (more
on boat shape).
Second, I would drop the full keel
criteria, since a boat with a
moderate fin keel will generally
be faster and more maneuverable
with little or no sacrifice in
comfort or tracking. It is a
common misconception that full
keel boats track better; tracking
is actually a function of many
other design parameters.
Incidentally, my old boat, a Fastnet 45, tracked very poorly
and the present Morgan’s Cloud
steers like she is on rails—they
are both fin keel boats. This is
not to say that I would rule out
full keel boats, only that I would
consider moderate fins too.
Third, I would not worry about a
cutter rig since I don’t think
that the additional complications
are necessary or even desirable on
a boat below about 35,000lb
(16,000kg) displacement. (I’m
assuming here that you are talking
of a true cutter in which the mast
is further aft than a sloop and
the staysail is used all the time
when the wind is forward of the
beam.) Note that I do believe that
any offshore boat, regardless of
size, should have running
backstays to stabilize the rig and
a removable internal headstay that
can be set up easily to take a
storm jib—both are relatively
simple modifications to most
sloops.
Whatever boat you settle on, make
sure you get a really good survey
and keep a substantial amount of
money in your budget for a
complete refit. To make many,
perhaps most, used boats ready for
the high latitudes you will be
looking at new rigging and sails,
and possibly a new engine, as well
as substantial upgrades to most
other gear. If the boat is over
about ten years old, or has a
substantial amount of miles on it,
the steering gear and chain plates
need a very careful look that
should include complete
disassembly. On fiberglass boats,
be particularly wary of
chainplates that are encapsulated
in fiberglass and foam filled
fiberglass rudders, both can hide
metal corrosion just waiting to
cause disaster. Keep in mind that
bringing many older used boats up
to an adequate standard for the
high latitudes could cost you as
much again as the boat and so a
newer more expensive boat may be a
better deal in the long run.
France and Holland are good places
to start your search for a rugged
metal boat. You could also look at
really good quality fiberglass
production boats like those from
Hallberg-Rassy, although the teak
decks are a concern. You may wish
to take a look at
www.yachtworld.com to get an
idea of what is available.
Motorsailer
Versus Sailboat (05/2007)
Question: We are considering
the purchase of a 52' motorsailer
and wanted to know your thoughts
regarding at what age (we are 62
and 60) should a couple consider a
trawler versus a sailboat. After
reading your very detailed
descriptions regarding handling of
sails while voyaging we were just
wondering if we are taking on a
bit much as we plan to passage to
Alaska,
Hawaii
and beyond.
Answer:
Assuming no physical or health
limitations, other than the
standard aches and pains that go
with the age, I see no reason not
to be ocean sailing into your
sixties or even seventies. If a
motorboat is really what you want,
then fine, nothing wrong with
that, but don’t go that way just
because of your age.
After all,
many of the most daring and
arduous sailboat voyages of the
last 50 years were made by people
over 60, and many of those sailors
were not immune to the ravages of
age either: Francis Chichester was
fighting cancer, Miles Smeeton’s
arthritic knees were so bad that
at times he could barely walk, and
H.W. (Bill) Tillman suffered from
intense chronic back pain.
I have a
friend that is pushing 80 and
still offshore voyaging under
sail; he has circumnavigated the
world twice since celebrating his
sixtieth. I have another friend in
his middle sixties who is
currently preparing his 32 foot
boat for a voyage to
Greenland.
These are not super-people either;
both of them have had serious and
debilitating battles with cancer.
I guess what I’m saying here is
that I think that whether we go on
sailing (or do much else worth
while) as we age is more an
attitudinal issue than a physical
one.
I’m only four
years behind you and hope and
plan, barring serious illness, to
be sailing Morgan’s Cloud
with her big rig and manual
winches, well into my sixties.
Sure, hoisting the main is harder
now than it was ten years ago and
I guess there is even a small
chance that the exertion could
kill me—better that way than
shoveling snow.
I can’t say
what is right for you, but for me
I think that pampering myself and
avoiding exertion because it hurts
a bit or makes me more tired than
it once did is a slippery slope to
the rocking chair. I’m not
suggesting that all of us can or
should emulate
Chichester
or Tillman (I know I’m not that
tough) but I do want to go on
pushing myself past my comfort
zone, even if only a little.
By the way, if you think that I’m
one of those hard men that is
never sick and has no sympathy for
those that are, just talk to
anyone who knows me well; they
will dissolve into gales of
laughter at the thought.
If you do
decide to go with sail, I would be
thinking more about a real
sailboat, albeit with a powerful
auxiliary engine, than a
motorsailer. More on that in the
next post.
Which Motorsailer (05/2007)
Question: We are a couple aged 60
and 62 considering a 52’ motorsailer
for extended cruising to Alaska,
Hawaii and beyond. We have attached
some details on the boat and would
like your opinion of its suitability
for our plans. The #1 reason we like
the motorsailer concept is the raised
and fully enclosed pilothouse, the
layout (galley and saloon area) and
the large engine.
Answer:
I’m afraid that I’m just not a fan of
this kind of boat for offshore
voyaging. Motorsailers of this type
are, in my opinion, just a way to put
too much interior in a hull of a given
length resulting in way too much
volume in the ends of the boat.
I know that these wide boat interiors
can be very seductive, but a boat,
whether motor or sail, or something
in- between, should be primarily a
machine to move safely and comfortably
through the water. A soft fast ride with no pounding and nose diving will
go a lot further toward making your
cruise fun, safe and comfortable than
a huge salon and galley. See
No Excuse to Pound for more on
this.
You can get all of the features you
mention, albeit downsized a bit, in a
modern pilothouse sailboat that will
be faster under both power and sail
and easier to handle than the big
bruiser you are considering. I would
suggest looking at something like an
Abel Marine Apogee 50. If you must
have an interior of the same volume as
the motorsailer, a Sundeer 64 would be
an option. Interestingly, the Sundeer
64 weighs almost exactly the same
amount as the motorsailer you are
looking at, but will motor or sail
rings around it, while being far more
comfortable offshore. Both the Abel
and the Sundeer would be around the
same price as the motorsailer if
bought second hand. Remember, boats
are priced by the pound, not the foot.
A big engine is not the exclusive
preserve of the motorsailer either. By
coincidence, our own Morgan’s Cloud
has exactly the same engine, although
not turbocharged as the motorsailer
you are looking at. But with MC we are
talking about a boat that has won her
class twice in the Newport Bermuda
race, not a likely scenario with the
motorsailer.
You may be wondering why I’m
emphasizing speed so much for a
cruising boat. Well, aside from the
obvious benefit of being in harm's way
for less time at sea, and perhaps
counter intuitively, fast boats are
generally easier to sail with lower
loads than slow ones: You can shorten
sail more and earlier with a fast boat
and still keep the boat moving, and if
it all becomes too much, you can
shorten right down and motorsail a
real sailboat way faster and more
comfortably than a motorsailer.
On the left is a rough
sketch of the motorsailer’s
deck profile superimposed over
a picture of Morgan’s Cloud. Keep in
mind that the boats weigh
about the same; in fact, in a
fully loaded comparison MC is
probably lighter. Also, the
profile difference is much
more dramatic than this image
shows since MC has a lot of
reserve buoyancy (flare) in
the ends. A water plane plan
of both boats would show a
much larger difference.
Macgregor
26M for Trans-Atlantic (2007)
Question: I am a 46 year old
professional in fairly good health and
in good shape. I am wanting to reverse
the steps of my
great-great-grandfather, sailing from
Belfast, Maine to Bantry Bay, Ireland.
I plan to leave June 3rd, 2011. The
boat I want to take is a Macgregor
26M. Is this solid enough?
Answer: In a word, no. The
Macgregor is an ultralight boat
trailer sailor designed for coastal
sailing, not the North Atlantic. I
know that smaller boats have crossed
the Atlantic safely but they are
generally very different in
construction and design from the
Macgregor. For example, I would not
hesitate to cross the Atlantic in a
Contessa 26, a Virtue 25 or even a
Dana 24. Well, maybe I would hesitate,
my days of going to sea in boats that
small with the attendant level of
discomfort are long gone, but there is
nothing intrinsically dangerous about
an ocean crossing in any of these
three boats. All of them are heavier
and substantially more expensive than
the Macgregor, but you get what you
pay for.
Used Boat for Trans-Atlantic on a
Budget (2007)
Question: I am trying to buy a
boat to go cruising with my family.
Over the course of a few years, we
will cruise in the Chesapeake and then
the Med with a trans-Atlantic in
between. My budget is modest
(US$50,000 give or take 20%). However,
the choice of boats is MIND BOGGLING!
Is there a site, or a person, or a
process that you could share with me
that helps one to narrow down the
choices? Are there boats/brands from
the last 40 years that simply must be
avoided in general and all of the rest
are more or less OK?
Answer:
I think that it will be very difficult
to get your goals met at the budget
you have set. The key issue here is
that you want to cross the Atlantic
safely with four people. If you just
wanted to coastal cruise or just
wanted to cross the Atlantic with two
it might be doable, but doing both is
going to be a problem. Even if you
could get a boat that is fundamentally
seaworthy for that price, she will
almost certainly be old and require
substantial upgrade and repair to get
into ocean ready condition, which will
strain your budget.
Having said that, you might just mange
to meet your goals by buying a good
and strong old boat, possibly damaged,
investing sweat rather than money and
buying good used gear. To take this
course you need time and a lot of
experience maintaining sailboats.
Also, keep in mind that you might end
up with a safe boat, but she will be
small, cramped for four people and
very basic.
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A Ted Brewer
designed Hullmaster 32, an example
of an older but solid boat that
could probably go to sea if
carefully checked over and
upgraded (this one is). This boat
is not for sale and I have no idea
what she is worth. |
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As you look for boats, keep in mind
that the vast majority of boats,
particularly in your price range, are
not something you want to take
yourself and the ones you love
offshore in. When looking at boats, be
particularly careful of boats built
during the production sailboat boom of
the seventies; many were cheaply built
then and are way past their best
before date now.
It is hard to recommend brands, but an
old Hallberg-Rassy, Pearson (watch
out, there are some poorly built ones
around), Nicholson, Pacific Seacraft
(probably too expensive), or Contessa
(see www.sailingmagazine.net/UBN_1003.html
for an example) might be types to look
at.
With boats of this quality, it is
likely that any that fit your budget
will be old and worn, so a really good
survey will be essential. The chain
plates (Nicholsons had problems here),
mast step, bulkhead attachments,
rudder and keel root are all places
where major trouble that can cost a
lot of money to fix or sink you can
lurk.
As to a web site or person to help you
select a boat, you may wish to contact
John Neal at
www.mahina.com who provides
a boat selection advice service. If
nothing else you should read John's
excellent boat selection tips.
We also provide the same service
although our expertise is more in
larger boats and boats being built or
fitted out for the high latitudes.
Reader
addition (the commenter's name is
John, and that is all we know):
I recommend having a look at:
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Practical Sailor magazine; |
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Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You
Anywhere, by John Vigor; |
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Used Boat Notebook, by John Kretschmer; |
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Voyaging On A Small Income, by Annie
Hill; and |
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www.setsail.com/s_logs/martin/martin.html.
This family cruised around the world
on a heavily rebuilt Cal 25, certainly
not anyone's ideal choice for an
ocean-crossing boat—they started off
as a couple and added kids along the
way over 7 years—but it certainly can
be done; they later bought a 33ft
steel boat and cruised to the Arctic. |
Steel boats can be very good buys
since they're typically less desirable
than fiberglass boats, primarily for
two reasons: they're not well known in
North America (as opposed to Europe)
and there are many examples of very
poorly home-built steel boats for
sale. That being said, if you know
what you are looking for, and have a
survey, it is possible to get a VERY
good deal on a well-built, used steel
boat that will take you just about
anywhere you want to go in the world.
The cost will likely come in gear and
other upgrades to make the boat safe
and comfortable.
Finally, have a look on
www.yachtworld.com (Advanced
Search, select steel hull as a search
criteria, length 30 to 35); or have a
look at this project steel boat for
sale for very cheap (www.seamuffin.com/?page_id=51).
I don't know the boat, but it looks
like it could fit the bill for what
you have in mind.
Aluminum Catamaran (2007)
Question: I would like to do
some cruising in the high latitudes
and am in the process of planning a
boat to take me there. You and others,
like Jimmy Cornell, are very partial
to alloy boats and I agree it seems to
be the way to go. But I also like
catamarans. I can have a cat made from
alloy. What do you think of sailing in
the high latitudes in a catamaran? I
was thinking at least 50' long with
thin hulls to help her point well. I
would like to visit Alaska and
Antarctica, among many other places.
Answer:
As I answer this, please keep in mind
that I have had no multi-hull
experience since a summer skippering a
50ft day charter (head boat) catamaran
some 30 years ago. Having said that, I
see no reason why an aluminum
catamaran would not be perfectly
practical for the high latitudes; in
fact, some real advantages come to
mind:
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Shallow draft enabling the boat to get
away from drifting ice.
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Could be built to easily dry out on
the tide.
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The potential for fast passages,
thereby reducing the chance of getting
caught out in heavy weather.
I think that the main issues will be
making the boat strong enough to
withstand the demands of high latitude
sailing as well as capable of carrying
the necessary equipment (particularly
ground tackle) without making the boat
too heavy. As I understand it, the key
to safety in multi-hulls is keeping
them light. I can remember that the
charter cat mentioned above used to
scare me in a breeze when we had a
full load of tourists aboard and, in
fact, my predecessor as skipper
flipped it in that condition, luckily
without loss of life. Of course
multi-hull design has come a huge
distance since then.
There is even a French yard that
specializes in aluminum catamarans,
albeit large and expensive ones; see
www.yapluka.fr.
Used Colin Archer Design (2006)
Question: We have reached a stage now where we
want to be cruising very soon (world
in 4 to 5 years, local waters well
before that), and so we are looking at
boats to do this. In two weeks or so
we will travel interstate to see this
boat:
She is a Colin Archer design, 43' in
steel built by a Dutch yard, about 25
years old, appears in very good nick,
also very strong (16mm keel, 6mm below
WL, 5mm above, 4mm topsides). Safe,
too: watertight doors, good helm and fitout etc. (The name and colour
are a bit of an issue...) We would
have her surveyed of course. But it is
her design which I would ask your
impressions of, because we would want
to take our boat to South Chile and
the Horn, and bring her home again. As
a heavy displacement boat she will be
slow, maybe 7 knots at best, and I
accept this, because her seaworthiness
is the most important. But I thought
you might have had your ear to the
ground about cruising design for a bit
longer than I, and am wondering if you
could offer your thoughts about her as
a boat to go most places.
Answer:
Some thoughts on the boat, in no
particular order:
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'Colin Archer' can cover a wide
gamut of designs from exact copies of
Archer’s boats to poor copies. It's
important to make sure you are
comfortable with the designer and the
design.
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The pilot house looks great;
however, the windows are very large. I
would want very strong storm covers
for them before going to sea.
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I think she will be slow and you
should be ready to motor a lot. I
think that seven knots may be
optimistic. She might hit that from
time to time but the averages will be
much less. I’m guessing five knots.
Morgan’s Cloud is 56’ long with a
fin keel and big rig and comes from a
racing pedigree but we feel fortunate
to average seven knots over a 24 hour
period. If you look at her as a motorsailer
you will be happy; if as an auxiliary
sailboat I think you may be
disappointed. This might just be my
personal prejudice since I'm a great
believer in fast boats for offshore
sailing on the basis that the longer
you are out there the more likely it
is that you will get thrashed.
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25 years is old for a steel boat.
Many steel commercial vessels are
considered ready for the breaker’s
yard at that age. She may be fine, but
make sure it is a really careful
survey from someone that knows steel
boats and uses a plate thickness
meter. The surveyor needs to get into
EVERY corner, even if it means taking
the boat apart. If you can’t do this
it’s not a good enough survey. Beware
of corrosion behind insulation and in
difficult to reach places like under
the engine.
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The Dutch are among the best metal
yacht builders in the world.
That is all that comes immediately to
mind. Hope it helps and good luck. If
you are interested in more in depth
evaluations of possible boats and
their gear for high latitude sailing
we can provide this for a fee.
Fiberglass
Sailboat in the High
Latitudes (2005)
Question: Would you
cruise the high latitudes
in a fiberglass hull?
Answer:
There are two parts to the
answer: Depends on the
fiberglass boat, and
depends on the area of the
high latitudes. (On this
last I will restrict my
thoughts to Arctic and
North Atlantic since I
have no Antarctic
experience.)
Given that the boat is a
good offshore vessel
capable of keeping the sea
in heavy weather, we would
want to see the following
for high latitude sailing:
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The boat should be
constructed strongly
enough to withstand a
full speed grounding.
There are far too many
fin-keeled fiberglass
boats that will suffer
catastrophic hull
failure at the keel to
hull joint in the event
of even a slow speed
grounding.
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The boat should be able
to stand up to heavy
weather at sea without
leaking through the
decks or hull. Many
fiberglass boats are so
flexible that as soon as
they are really stressed
offshore they start to
leak from every port,
hatch and chain plate.
There are few things
more unpleasant than
coming below to a wet
bunk after a long watch
in cold, windy
conditions.
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Water tight bulkheads
(good idea for a metal
boat too). Collision
with ice—or,
particularly in the
Barents Sea, logs—is
always a possibility and
fiberglass, no matter
how strong, tends to
crack when hit, unlike
aluminum or steel, which
stretch a long way
before rupturing,
thereby absorbing much
of the blow.
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Insulation. An uninsulated fiberglass
boat will weep
condensation in cold
weather wetting
everything
below—miserable. Most
metal boats are
insulated with foam.
The
where:
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Svalbard (Spitsbergen),
west coast of the island
of Spitsbergen: Sure |
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Svalbard (Spitsbergen),
Hinlopen Strait and
Nordaustlandet: No |
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Greenland, west coast to
Disco Island: Sure |
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Greenland, east coast: No |
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Baffin Island: No |
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Labrador: Sure |
The places I have answered
"No" to have high ice
concentrations, poor or
non-existent charting and
little or no help is
available to a damaged
boat.
Having said all that,
fiberglass boats having
few or none of the
features mentioned above
have made safe and
seamanlike voyages to the
high latitudes. The
foremost example being
Willy Ker who has made a
series of incredible
voyages to both the Arctic
and Antarctic—that make
ours in Morgan's Cloud
look like a walk in the
park—in a standard
Contessa 32. Like so many
things in cruising there
is no right or wrong
answer, just opinions, of
which this is ours.
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Last
edited on
Monday April 28, 2008
Please read the following:
COPYRIGHT:
All information on this website is the copyright of John
Harries and/or Phyllis Nickel. All rights reserved.
FAIR USE: Notwithstanding the above, it is perfectly
acceptable for you to use quotes of a reasonable length from
this website, as long as you include an attribution with a link
to this website. DISCLAIMER:
Nothing on this website or in direct communications received
from us, or in our articles in the media, should be construed to
mean or imply that the high latitudes are anything other than a
hazardous place to take a boat. Dangers such as, but not limited
to, extreme weather, cold, ice, lack of help or assistance, and
poor charting could injure or kill you and wreck your boat.
Decisions to cruise the high latitudes, where you go, and how
you equip your boat, are yours and yours alone. The information
on this web site is based on what has worked for us in the past,
but that does not mean it will work for you, or that it is the
best, or even a good way for you to do things. |
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