Thursday, May 8, 2008

Rode Size for a Galerider Drogue

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Question: Would you recommend 3/4" or 1" rode for use with a Galerider Drogue for a 46 foot 33,000lb cutter?

Answer: I would think that 3/4" would be adequate, but you should check with the manufacturer who should know what the loads generated by each Galerider size are. With that piece of data in hand you can then size the rode. I would allow at least a 100% safety factor since nylon rope's strength can degrade quickly with chafe and sun damage.

By the way, we far prefer the Jordan Series Drogue over the Galerider (see this post), unless you will be using the Galerider, as we have, off the bow.

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Monday, May 5, 2008

Atlantic Crossing, Picking a Go Date

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Question: [edited for brevity] I’m planning an Atlantic Crossing from Boston to Scotland. How can I recognize the best moment weather wise to leave for the safest crossing?

Answer: Since weather forecasts are only accurate for about four days, at best, there is no way to manage the weather for an entire crossing of that length by picking a given day to leave. This means that you and your boat should be capable of withstanding at least one multi-day gale and on that route there is the possibility, albeit small, of a full blown North Atlantic storm, even in summer. (For more details on the best months to leave, see this post.)

Having said that, you do want to try and pick a leaving date that will give you several days of good weather and fair winds so that the crew can settle down and get their sea legs. (See this article for more on our thinking about managing crew comfort.)

Generally the best departure days from the US east coast are immediately, and I do mean immediately, after a cold front goes through. This will normally give you clear weather and northwest winds as the following high pressure moves in. Of course this is based on averages and should not be taken as gospel.

You can also get a feel for how the systems are moving by analyzing the 500mb (jet steam) reports for several weeks before you leave, but to do this you will require an in-depth knowledge of weather theory and forecasting. A good idea anyway since you will have a much more comfortable, and probably safer, trip if someone on the boat has this level of knowledge and you install the necessary equipment to receive GRIB files and weather maps.

To gain a good grounding in weather theory, we recommend the Starpath Weather Trainer, an excellent computer based program learning package.

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Thursday, May 1, 2008

Comments about Parachute Anchors from New Zealand

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Our heavy weather series continues to attract interesting comments and suggested alternatives from experienced ocean voyagers. This one comes from Lane and Kay Finley who have a lot of ocean experience and make films about sailing, which are mostly sold in NZ and Australia. They also have a great web site with lots of good information.

“During the filming we launched a parachute anchor according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It was a rather breezy day, but not storm conditions. Even in these mild conditions, the strain and stress that was generated to our boat’s substantial deck fittings was huge. We came away wondering what vessel could stand up to a real storm when tied to one of these anchors.

We decided we would not carry one onboard as we would rather take our chances running with warps, as this has worked well for us in several situations in the past. However, to bring it [the sea anchor] aboard, we merely cast it loose and then motored around to the top of it and picked up the trip line, which was floated on a buoy. It came onboard with no trouble.”

There are two interesting points in the above:

  1. It confirms our concerns about the stresses imposed by sea anchors.

  2. Casting off the main warp prior to picking up the trip line will reduce the chances of a tangle or getting a line around the rudder or propeller and makes a lot of sense.

Lane and Kay go on to say:

Just a note on warps and drogues: We have an 18mm (3/4”) garden hose onboard that is 25 meters long. When we begin sliding down the front of 10 meter seas we take the coiled up hose with the two ends threaded together, pass a 200 meter nylon rode through the coil and throw it off the stern with one end of the line on the starboard primary winch and the other end on the port primary winch. Because the garden hose has no flat surfaces (like a tire) it lies just under the surface of the water, does not have to be weighted and will not pop out and skip. It slows the boat down to around four knots and gives us complete control. There is no worry about chaffing because, well it’s a garden hose.

When we want to bring it in, or adjust the length, we just wind in on the primary winches and because the line is in a loop, there is a two to one purchase in our favour. When we get to the next port, we use it to wash the boat down and fill our water tanks. Don’t laugh – it’s the best drogue we have ever found! We used it in the Queen’s Day Storm in 1994, 85 knots and 16 metre seas. [One of the worst storms to hit a fleet of sailboats in history.] It worked a treat!

Who would have thought, a garden hose! Just shows that being innovative and keeping the goal in mind, rather than fixating on gear, can solve a lot of problems offshore.

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Best Time for West to East Atlantic Crossing

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Question: [edited for brevity] I will be sailing to Gibraltar from the Chesapeake via the Azores. When would be the best time to leave and when would be the earliest I could/should leave?

Answer: This is a pretty standard west to east Atlantic crossing. The best time to leave the east coast of North America is late May to mid-June. The earliest is probably mid-May, although leaving that early will increase your chances of a gale.

The latest date to go is dictated by the onset of the hurricane season. Ten years ago I would have said that mid-July or even late July was the latest time to leave, but we are definitely seeing more frequent and more intense hurricanes in June and July than we did then, so now I would say the end of June is the latest prudent date.

For more information you should consult the excellent Atlantic Crossing Guide, published by the RCC Pilotage Foundation.

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Saturday, April 26, 2008

Life Rafts

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Question: What sort of life raft do you have on Morgan’s Cloud?

Answer: We have a RFD Beaufort 6-person commercial SOLAS raft.

The advantage of this raft is that Revere and RFD Beaufort are partners in it: Revere in the USA and RFD Beaufort for the rest of the world. Or at least that seems to be how it works, although you can buy a RFD Beaufort in the USA too. Anyway, this means that you can get these rafts serviced at any of some 300 RFD Beaufort service stations anywhere in the world as well as at Revere stations in the USA. For example, there are 23 service depots in Norway.

Contrast that to many of the American-built rafts from companies like Swilick, Winslow or Givens that can only be serviced in major yachting centers. This is not a trivial issue if you plan to sail to out-of-the-way places, as we found to our cost when we had to ship our old Givens to the UK from Norway to get it serviced—the shipping cost twice what the service did.

Having said that, I’m not sure that the RFD Beaufort is as good a raft as the top of the line offerings from the above companies. It was certainly a lot cheaper, even though we opted for a commercial quality raft that is SOLAS certified. However, we are comfortable with the RFD because, in our opinion, the most likely scenarios which would force us into the raft are fire or flooding, not extreme weather. Frankly, we think it unlikely that we would make it into the raft alive in a storm strong enough to overwhelm Morgan’s Cloud, so whether or not the RFD is the ultimate storm survival raft is academic to us.

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Sunday, April 20, 2008

Radar Scanner Position

posted by John & Phyllis Web Site

Question: [edited for brevity]
What is your preference regarding the best place to mount a radar antenna? As far as we can tell from the pictures of Morgan’s Cloud you have mounted yours on a pole aft.

Our previous experience with radars tells us that the antenna should be as high and free as possible. Wouldn't a radar antenna mounted on the mast just above the first spreaders give better range and a more detailed radar picture than if it were mounted lower?

It also appears from the pictures that your antenna isn't mounted in a way that makes it able to tilt so that it can compensate for heel of the boat when sailing?


Answer: First off we should say that we view radar as the most important piece of electronic equipment on Morgan’s Cloud—yes, more important than GPS, since we can find our way with a compass and sextant but we can’t see unlit objects at night or through fog—so we have given a lot of thought to the position and installation of our radar scanner.

We prefer a pole mounted aft for the scanner over mast mounting for the following reasons:

  1. The scanner is much less vulnerable to damage from an errant halyard or sail.

  2. We do not agree that a higher position for the scanner is a significant benefit. Small targets, like buoys, don’t show much over a mile regardless of scanner height and large targets, like ships, show at 10 miles—plenty of room to plot and take avoiding action—with our current scanner height. In fact I think that putting the scanner substantially higher than ours can be a disadvantage since it will be subjected to more motion in a seaway.

  3. A scanner on the mast is more difficult to service than one on a pole and heaven help you if the cable needs replacing.

  4. Mast mounted radars are very vulnerable to damage when the mast is un-stepped.

  5. We don’t like the added weight aloft. Sure it’s not that much, but with the lever arm, every pound counts.
About the only advantage I can think of for a mast mount would be a theoretically less impeded view forward. However, in the real world we have never found that there was any appreciable radar shadow cast by the mast and rigging.

Our radar scanner can be inclined to compensate for heel using a clever system based on a speedboat hydraulic trim tab pump and actuator. We got ours from Edson, although a reasonably handy owner could duplicate our system, by buying the gear directly, for a fraction of what Edson charges.

We would not be without this tilt feature since it is just plain dangerous to sail around with a huge radar blind spot on either side of the boat when heeled. This was graphically brought home to me the second year I owned Morgan’s Cloud (before we installed our incline system) when we were nearly run down in thick fog by a trawler that we only saw at 100 yards and that visually, not on radar, approaching from our port beam. Yes, I know we had the right of way but with huge steel trawlers traveling at 10 knots that is scant comfort!

Incidentally, we far prefer our manually controlled (using a switch in the cockpit) inclining system to gimbled backstay systems like the Questus. Our thinking is that no matter how well damped the latter is, there are just too many bend cycles being put on the cable. Also, back stays are prone to vibration, surely not a good thing for sensitive electronics.

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Self sufficiency in power

posted by Colin Speedie Web Site

Keeping the batteries charged

When we were planning our new boat, one of the first aspects we discussed was our preferences for power generation, and our desire to have as much “free” energy input as possible. There were three reasons for this; our desire to avoid the complexity of a diesel generator; our own commitment to renewable power after so many years of both working in the environmental field; and a chance to agree on something – it’s always a good idea to establish some common ground first!

Top of the list was a wind generator. Having owned one of these devices on a previous boat, my views on them are straightforward. None of them are the quietest things to live with, so if you must have one, then its output must justify the discomfort factor. So we opted for a Superwind, and having lived aboard for the last few weeks it is a revelation. Not only is it quiet (enough not to annoy the neighbours), but with a maximum 350 watt output when there is enough breeze is well worth having. Being German, it is nicely engineered and built, and looks like it should be a real asset in the long term.

We also wanted plenty of solar, so we have two long slim panels with a combined output of 90 watts on the OVNI arch at our stern. Following good advice we had these mounted so that they can articulate. Two more semi flexible panels with a combined output of 96 watts are about to go on the coachroof ahead of the mainsheet where they will not be subjected to too much foot traffic, and hopefully will not suffer too much from shading by the boom. Finally, we have a very nice 80 watt solid panel which can be articulated on the guardwires for maximum output when in port or at anchor. All of the panels were carefully selected for reliability and sustained output, as opposed to peak, so we feel that we should be able to make a solid contribution to our daily needs in this way.

The aim has been to achieve a balance between wind and solar. In the higher latitudes we tend to frequent, wind will generally have the upper hand, but solar can still contribute due to the long hours of daylight, and, very occasionally, when the sun shines. The best we can hope for is that each technology works at its best for some of the time.

Our engine is fitted with a high output alternator, rated at 105 amps, and we are going to see how we get along with this unit without any “smart” type regulator for this season. With a battery capacity in excess of 600 amp hours we may have to consider fitting a second alternator in any case, so once we have tried it out over an extended spell living aboard, we’ll know more. We really want to avoid running our engine at anchor, which is not only unpleasant to live with, but is death to a diesel engine in any case. If all else fails, we have a neat little Honda petrol generator that we’ll use.

We are planning on buying a towed generator for longer passages, as these units are reckoned to offer the most amps per buck, normally around 1 amp output per knot of boatspeed. Being simple, robust units, we have high hopes of running the engine as little as possible on passage, as long as fish don’t go for the spinners too often.

Finally, we have tried as far as possible to audit our requirements, and reduce our daily power consumption. We are slowly going through the boat checking what lights in the interior can be fitted with LED’s and which not. We have a masthead combined tricolour and anchor LED unit to conserve energy when sailing or overnight, but have not bothered with our running lights, as we’ll be under power then, so little will be saved. And we have no freezer unit, simply an efficient coolbox, so that’s another significant drain we don’t have to worry about.

We are aware that none of this has come cheap. If we added it all up it, including installation, it would amount to perhaps two thirds of the cost (and installation) of a genset. But we think that if you have a genset, then the next thing will be that you will have more need of it – your power requirements will increase in line. Then there are the spares, and so forth – and don’t even mention reliability. And we accept that we may have to live more frugally than some others out there, but feel it is all relative, and that living simply is a tiny price to pay for the huge privilege of going long-distance cruising.

[This post is part of a continuing series on the selection, building, and fitting out of an aluminum Ovni 435 by guest writer and very experienced offshore sailor Colin Speedie. You can read earlier posts in this series by clicking here and scrolling down to Colin's posts.
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