OK, enough of the theory and philosophy I blathered on about in the first two posts of this series.
In this post I will write about two requirements in our quest to stay aboard: reach and continuity of attachment, and the gear and procedures we use to satisfy them. Then I will finish off the post with our rules for harness and tether use.
Reach
We have installed a system of jacklines and pad eyes that allows us to clip on before leaving the cabin and remain so while still being able to reach every part of the deck and rig from bow to stern and right out to the boom end, with a strong point always within a tether length. Of course all these points are immensely strong and well capable of taking the load of a person hitting the water with the boat charging along. They include:
Jacklines
Webbing jacklines (dark blue in the photograph) running along both side decks to as far forward and aft as we can get them. Morgan’s Cloud has a center cockpit, so this requires four jacklines, two running forward and two aft. We also have jacklines on the inside faces of the cockpit seats on both sides of the cockpit running the full length.
Strong Points
We have two pad eyes, one each side of the mast about a foot above the deck and a further eye on the boom, about half way along its length.
Continuity of Attachment
As the recent tragic loss of Ned Cabot off Newfoundland—who, as I now understand it, went over the side in gale conditions when the boat was hit by a large wave during a helmsman change, while he was momentarily un-clipped—graphically demonstrated, being un-tethered, even for a moment, can be fatal. And if you think about it, it becomes obvious that the action of moving your tether from one strong point or jackline to another is by definition dangerous because you have at least one hand engaged with that process at the very moment you are not attached to anything.
One solution is to have double tethers, often with one shorter than the other. But to my way of thinking this is way too much clutter to be dragging around with you as well as potentially confusing, particularly on a dark night with the spray flying and an urgent situation to be attended to.
We have found a better way, at least for us:
Clear Run on Jacklines
First off, we have carefully positioned the deck jacklines and the surrounding gear so that at least the weather side jacklines have a clear run from end to end without any lines crossing them that will require detaching and reattaching the tether as we move along it. This is easier to say than do, but is, I believe, fundamental to a good system. In fact we are so fanatical about this that we will forgo the added convenience of a rigging system if it impinges on this requirement.
Multiple Tethers
For the last 20 years we have used a system of multiple tethers with snap shackles on the harness end. On Morgan’s Cloud we have nine of these tethers that generally remain attached to their respective strong points or jacklines positioned as follows:
- Cockpit: three, one each side, on the jacklines, plus a spare. If we have guests, we add one more.
- Deck: four, one to each jackline with the free ends draped into the cockpit close to hand.
- Mast: two, one each side, the free ends of which are easily reached from the side decks.
In Action
Let’s suppose for a moment that Phyllis has just called me from below to reef. Here is what I do:
- Before exiting the companionway I grab the free tether (Phyllis is on the other one) and clip it to my harness.
- Before exiting the cockpit, I clip the tether attached to the windward side jackline to my harness and then disconnect from the cockpit tether.
- When I reach the mast, I clip on to the tether at the mast and then unclip from the deck jackline tether.
- If, after reefing, I decide to tie in the points (unusual), which will necessitate getting on top of the hard dodger and bimini top, I detach the unused mast tether and attach it to the strong point half way along the boom and then the other end to my harness, before disconnecting from the remaining mast tether.
- To return to the cockpit, I simply reverse the procedure.
- Once in the cockpit, if I decide to put in a safety strop, which necessitates standing on the aft cabin top while working on the boom end, I take the spare cockpit tether and attach it to the boom gallows and then onto my harness before unclipping from the cockpit tether.
I have completed the entire sail change without being disconnected from a tether for even a second.
Easy to Use
All of this sounds complicated, but with a little practice it becomes second nature and takes far less time to do than to write about.
I have been using a harness and tether offshore for over 40 years. First with one tether, clipping and unclipping, briefly with two tethers on my harness (hated that) and for the last 20 years with multiple tethers as described above.
Having tried all three methods, I can state unequivocally that our multi-tether system is, at least for us, faster and easier to use than either of the other methods, once you get used to it. Also, having had many crew on the boat over the years I can state with confidence that the learning curve to be efficient with the multi-tether system is short, typically less than one watch.
Limitations
Of course this would not work on a racing boat with ten crew. The boat would need about 30 tethers—can you imagine the tangles! But we have found that it works just fine for the typical offshore cruising crew of two to four.
Our Rules For Harness Use
It’s easy to understand why a harness and tether should be worn on a day like this.
But what about an evening like this? Our tether system is so easy to use that we have to make a conscious effort to disconnect rather than the other way around—surely the best situation. And anyway there was a long slow swell running that would have made a recovery difficult, and darkness was falling.
Our tether system is so easy to use and comfortable that we have never had any trouble conforming to our standing rule that harnesses and tethers will be used on Morgan’s Cloud when one or more of the following conditions are present:
- There is any swell present, which translates in almost every case to whenever we are outside sheltered waters.
- It’s dark.
- If we are sailing and the wind is over 15 knots, even in sheltered waters.
Coming Up
In the next posts in this series I’m going to write about some interesting information that I have just learnt about jacklines; the details of our tethers, including the difficult issue of tether length; and making as sure as you can that your tether does not end up being, in Chris’s words, “a towing warp”. And after that, I will look at the whole issue of harnesses and life jackets and when wearing each is appropriate, or not.
Comments
I’m looking forward to hearing what you, our readers, can add to the above. Please leave a comment. But please hold your comments on the issues that I will be covering in future posts. That way all of your great ideas will be organized by topic.
Also, please do not ask questions or comment on the lifejackets we are wearing in the photographs. These photographs were taken over a period of years during which our thinking and practice in this area has evolved. We will be addressing the harness and/or lifejacket issue in a separate post.
Marc Dacey February 23, 2013 at 2:21 pm
John, an excellent and thorough post…and I look forward to its continuation, as thinking on these topics surrounding “staying aboard in all conditions” is, as you point out, currently evolving.
I have a question, however: When you say “we will forgo the added convenience of a rigging system if it impinges on this requirement”, to what convenient rigging system are you referring?
John February 23, 2013 at 4:06 pm
Hi Marc,
One example would be a boom brake which, at least on our boat, would require leading the line over the jackline. Another might be one of those slick lazy runner retrieval systems you see.
That’s just two that come to mind, the point being that a free run on the jacklines is sacrosanct to us.
Marc Dacey February 23, 2013 at 6:25 pm
OK, thanks. Sacrosanct is not a bad thing, particularly if you consider sailing a more religious experience than any lubberly church attendance. I assume the ban on jackline interference would likely include preventers, as well, I suppose. No wonder you’ve put a lot of thought into your reefing set-up!
John February 23, 2013 at 6:37 pm
Hi Marc,
Actually, depending on how we are set up, our boom control tackle (another post in itself) does impinge on the leeward jackline, but since we try to always go forward on the weather side, for reasons I will be writing about in a future post, it does not matter, particularly since, even with the tackle rigged, we can reach the mast tether.
Jacques Landry February 23, 2013 at 2:56 pm
John,
Nice post, and I am with you on most of it! I too use a similar arrangement of jack lines and strong attachment points all over the place. But I don’t understand or agree with you comment about double tethers. How could you say it is “too much clutter to be dragging around with you as well as potentially confusing…” when your installation would be a lot more confusing for most, even more for visitors who are trying to help (maybe you are hurt or something) ? Your scenario is a very complicated choreography which I’d rather leave to the ballet dancers! Additionally, in very bad weather and darkness (what the heck are you doing on deck you will say
you may have difficulties finding the tethers out there. The one ending on your harness is a sure bet!
I bought a double tether but did not like the shorter section (which is there to keep you closer to the attachment point and prevent falling over the lifeline) so I simply use 2 tethers. Simple, cheaper and you can even attach yourself to two points at once for stability when needed. Furthermore, I have the assurance that I will always be attached, as in your case you may end up having an obstruction in the way preventing you from reaching the next “tether station”.
Having said that, I can’t say you don’t have a safe approach !
John February 23, 2013 at 4:00 pm
Hi Jacques,
Well first off, as I said in my first post in this series, each to their own, or, if it works for you…
Having said that, I have tried carrying around two tethers on my harness, as you do, and have found our system of multiple tethers much easier to use and less confusing. I will also take you on in a reefing race with you using double tethers and me our multiple tether system for a large bet any time you are ready. (A competitor who gets confused and is unclipped for even a second is DSQ.)
All kidding aside, I think one of the big problems with two tethers is what do you do with the loose one? Most people end up draping it around their necks to stop from tripping over it and the process of getting it out of that position, clipping it on a jackline you have to find, and then draping the new free one around your neck is very time consuming and prone to confusion. It also requires much more “hand time” than our system, and any time a hand is messing with a tether, it’s not holding on.
The tethers are bright yellow, so there is no problem finding them, even on a black night. Also, you can grab the tether anywhere and let it run through your hand to the free end, much quicker and easier than bending down and clipping to a jackline or pad eye.
Just to clarify, we don’t have obstructions preventing us from getting to the next tether.
All I can say is, give it a try, you will be pleasantly surprised, I promise.
Jim Thomsen February 23, 2013 at 7:39 pm
Hi John,
Thanks for the great discussions.
What do you think of the use of high lifelines running the length of the boat? We have gone back and forth on this. Currently we are using the high lines.
Thanks,
Jim
Tom Hildebrandt February 24, 2013 at 9:09 am
Regarding high lifelines, Juno has an aluminum deck, with welded railing about 2 feet high around the entire boat. There are two openings in this railing, one at the bow rollers for anchor retrieval, and a one foot opening where the rudder post attaches to the tiller. The aft opening is immediately above the swim platform which has centered welded steps leading to the cockpit, so if the tiller is not stowed upright, this is the preferred way to move personnel and stores. When underway, the dingy, hoisted on davits, blocks this opening as does the tiller which is stowed upright when the autopilot is functioning.
The lower liefeline is a stainless wire securely attached to the welded stanchions.
I absolutely love the security of this system but I often say that when I am no longer agile enough to climb from my dingy over the lifelines, I will quit sailing!
John February 24, 2013 at 9:28 am
Hi Jim,
To clarify, are you talking about just having higher lifelines (longer stanchions) or are you talking of some additional line as mentioned by Steve, below.
If the former, I’m all for it, and the higher the better.
If the latter, its an interesting idea used the way Steve does. However, I would never clip a tether to such a line because of the risk of getting dragged. To my way of thinking, jacklines should be as far inboard as possible. But I’m getting ahead of myself on that, since it will be the subject of a future post.
Tom Hildebrandt February 24, 2013 at 8:57 am
After my ten years of offshore cruising, I have evolved to essentially the same system of a full run for the Jackline, and longer tethers for in the cockpit and shorter tethers on the jacklines. I personally use a single tether when I am doing normal tasks in the cockpit and when going on deck, but occasionally use two tethers when going on deck. I should note Juno is a aft cockpit so I only need two jacklines. The deck is aluminum with welded cleats both sides fore and aft which I use as an attachment points for the jackline so it is a full run fore and aft.
I have a boombrake and I lead the Jackline over the control lines for the boombrake, this has not been a problem but it does mean there is a bit of slack in the jackline.
I often sail with “casual” crew, backpackers and such, usually inexperienced sailors at best, and the rules I provide is that the person on watch has his harness on and is locked in, no if ands or buts. Watches start in the harbor. The watchstander can decide who else needs to be in a harness during calm weather during the day but my protocols also require that anyone, in the cockpit or on deck, be in a harness, and hooked in during the dark hours or in 15 knots or more. Day sails in sheltered waters, I make the decisions if harnesses are worn and by whom.
So our thinking is very similar on this issue.
I have had many people tell me my rules are draconian, but it is what makes me comfortable, and it is after all, my boat and not theirs!
Steve Guy February 24, 2013 at 9:21 am
In addition to jacklines and tethers, I rig a taught line between the outboard handle of my bimini to an attachment on the cap shroud about four feet or so above the deck. I was inspired to do this by the design of pilot boats, which have “pilot rails” attached inboard to the cabin top. At age seventy, I need all the help I can get. Designed in and built in pilot rails would be a thought for the next boat, perhaps as an option.
Thanks for the post and site,
…Steve Guy.
Steve Guy February 24, 2013 at 9:24 am
I should have mentioned that the cap shrouds are inboard by the cabin side and I use the line for balance going forward while my tether slides along the jackline.
…S.
Jim Thomsen February 24, 2013 at 10:12 am
I was asking about jacklines, run at about waist level the length of the boat. This is the system that John Neal uses. They do require some type of fitting at the shrouds so it does break the free run of the length of the boat.
Steve Guy February 24, 2013 at 10:24 am
The line I rig is inboard from the bimini side forward to the inboard cap shroud. The jacklines are conventionally run on deck and are what I am tethered to. If I did fall overboard I imagine being quickly dragged to the stern and then…? The multiple strongpoint-attached tether system sounds safer but still what would happen if you did go overboard?
Roland February 24, 2013 at 10:49 am
We use the (John Neal) jackline system in waist level that Jon Thomsen described. It is a system that makes you feel very safe. Only problem is that it takes some discipline to set up also for a short coastal sail in nice weather. The best system is the one that you actually have and use! The webbing on deck has a short life due to UV radiation. I read a test and was shocked how fast the strength disappeared even on UV resistant material. But as long as you replace them regularly I would agree it is a good system and we are considering going back to this as it is easy to use and do not inter fear with normal deck work.
John February 24, 2013 at 10:56 am
Hi Roland,
Thanks for the comment. We will be sharing some interesting real world testing based information on UV deterioration in an upcoming post.
Joe February 24, 2013 at 11:20 am
I could not help notice that in the picture you included that no one is wearing what might be impolitely referred to as a crotch strap that keeps the vest/harness from slipping over the head. That is something we do as a matter of course. Something of a pain to connect when you go on the 0100 watch but well worth it. Also we use fixed D rings (Winchard) in the cockpit located at the length mid-point. The cockpit of the Valiant and in this case the Valiant 47 is ‘large’ enough to allow crew to negotiate the full cockpit with the long tether with the benefit of a hard connection to the boat. And, of course jack lines running fore-aft obstruction-free the entire length.
John February 24, 2013 at 11:28 am
Hi Joe,
As I said in the post, that image was taken some years ago, in fact before crotch straps were even available. I will be addressing life jackets and crotch straps in a future post. Please hold your comments on that subject until then so that your thoughts are shared with everyone else.
Horatio Marteleira February 24, 2013 at 11:55 am
About half of my sailing is solo, so the issue is staying on deck – not merely attached to the boat.
Consequently, and not having a dodger, I rig a jackline along the center-line of the boat, betweeen the sissy bars and the mast and then to the staysail attachment. This way I can reach the toerail but not go over it. When closer to the bow, where there’s less beam, I switch to the shorter tether. Bullet proof, I think.
I do the same when not solo…couldn’t see anybody pulling me back aboard without further mishap to worsen the situation.
John February 24, 2013 at 6:48 pm
Hi Horatio,
That sounds like a really good system, for those without a dodger.
Dick Stevenson February 24, 2013 at 12:16 pm
This may fit better in an upcoming thread, but since UV deterioration came up, I will mention the following couple of points here. UV is a concern as is also the stretch that will occur in a long length of webbing when shock stressed such as happens with a POB. We have addressed both by running a quarter inch high- modulus line down the inside our tubular webbing and sewing it in at both ends. (These ends are then tied at the strong points so the sewing will never be stressed directly). My only concern in doing this was that the round HM line would make for uncertain footing if it rolled underfoot.. Encased as it is in the webbing, in 15 years of use in this fashion, we have not had troubles with uncertain footing.
Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
John February 24, 2013 at 6:45 pm
Hi Dick,
I really like the high modulus line thought, a lot. Please, if you would, repeat this comment when we get to the jackline material post together with any tips on the mechanics of the process and sources for the materials.
Dick Stevenson February 24, 2013 at 12:50 pm
Pertaining to keeping the jacklines close to boat centerline, we have a system which accomplishes this to a certain extent. One jackline begins in the cockpit and runs continuously around the mast and back to the cockpit on the other side. The other runs from the mast to the bow and is kept fairly firm therefore keeping crew tethered as close to the centerline as possible at the pointy end of the boat while the jackline lead at the belly of the boat goes from the dodger side to the mast rather than along the side decks, the route for most boats. While this may be only marginally better at having the jackline close to centerline, most of what we are talking about is fine tuning what are already fairly well thought out systems. This jackline route allows for undisturbed clipped on access from standing on the companionway stairs (clip the chest attachment to the always ready & attached port & starboard tethers left at hand drooping down the companionway) up around the mast and back on the other side. When we need to go forward of the mast more than tether length, clipping to the foredeck jackline is done at the mast (lots of handholds and often done on our knees) and the tether runs forward amidships. It is likely that we will benefit from John’s procedure and leave a spare tether on the foredeck jackline so we never have to be disengaged.
Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
Marc Dacey February 24, 2013 at 2:30 pm
In the context of this discussion, I wonder if there is any love or use of such items as netting running from toerail to top lifeline, or the more modern “W”s of heavy shock cord, or even weather clothes around the cockpit area. The tradeoff with the last one is, of course, windage, but the difference between a place like Britain and North America seems to be that you will find weather clothes in the former, and fullly enclosed biminis in the latter.
We have a high aft deck with a “sailing helm” on our steel pilothouse cutter. Our “roof” is four solar panels on an arch, so weather cloths make sense for us, as the windage from an enclosure would be ridiculous. Besides, if it’s that rough, we trim for course and retreat to the pilothouse.
I personally think one of the more dangerous maneuvers one can do is getting in and out of a cockpit in a seaway while clipping on or off from the side deck jacklines to the cockpit padeyes. Of course, leaving several tethers permanent on the jacklines as are found on Morgan’s Cloud means you are never untethered, but one could still slip and pay an unwelcome visit to Dr. Lewmar, dentist.
I am considering that some form of shock cord between the lower lifeline and the top pipe rail on my own boat, combined with netting between selected parts of the lifeline-gunwhale gap, might be the way to go, mainly to keep momentarily unsecured tools and poles aboard in rough stuff, which I think is also a consideration. When you are out on a jackline, after all, you are usually not just looking to stretch your legs: you are doing some tool or gear related function…see “putting lanyards on selected hand tools.”
David W February 24, 2013 at 2:34 pm
Reading the report below it makes one realise that the best place to be is onboard and IF you are on the low side make sure you are on your short tether.
http://www.maib.gov.uk/publications/investigation_reports/2012/lion.cfm
I also wonder why no one has come up with a system for getting someone back on board that doesn’t require 6 deck gorrillas.
cliff johnsen February 24, 2013 at 3:59 pm
As to the getting someone back on board: On our life sling, I have a loop tied in the line about 6 feet outboard of the attachment point. So, when someone is in that sling, and the rope it tight, we can attach a line to that loop and through a winch to pull the person toward us. As the original line becomes slack we can detach and continue with the winch pull. There is never a time when it is disconnected. Without that loop, it would be impossible to pull someone in or to detach and then go through a winch. Once in close, a spinnaker halyard or something can be attached to the outboard loop that is about 20′ toward the boat from the float sling.
Chris February 24, 2013 at 4:32 pm
John,
Reminds me of traversing a rock face on sequential belays. We use the same system, but are still in search of better jackline material.
John February 24, 2013 at 6:43 pm
Hi Chris,
Better jackline material coming up, together with UV testing data.
Chris February 24, 2013 at 6:59 pm
How’s the leg, by the by?
John February 25, 2013 at 9:11 am
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the thought. Coming along, but it is SLOW! More details in an upcoming post.
Judy Raymond February 24, 2013 at 10:06 pm
I am loving this discussion and grateful for the input from such experienced sailors. How do you keep from slipping on, tripping over or otherwise losing your footing on loose tethers languishing about waiting to be used? Thanks so much.
John February 25, 2013 at 9:13 am
Hi Judy,
Good question, but actually in practice this does not seem to be a problem. Keep in mind that the tethers are webbing, so they lie flat and represent very little trip risk. Also, the places they are left when not in use are not really places where you would step, unless you are using that tether.
Peter Passano February 24, 2013 at 10:47 pm
Hi John,
When building SEA BEAR 23 years ago, we addressed the issue of going overboard as follows:
1) NON SKID
Since she is all welded steel construction we sand blasted and epoxy primed the deck ( 2 coats).
Next we put on a heavy coat of Elastomeric Urethane.
While still wet we sprinkled a heavy layer of 1/8″ bits of ground up rubber tires.
When dry a final coat of flat, oil based enamel. Color beige
The result is a 1/4″ thick coating that provides an excellent non skid surface. In time the top coat of enamel wears down exposing black rubber spots. When this happens the non skid qualities actually improve. In practice, I overcoat the deck every couple of years for cosmetic purposes.
The urethane/rubber layer has remained in perfect condition for 23 years and in no place has it,in any way, come away from the steel or required repair or replacement.
One benefit of the system is it’s resiliency. If you drop a winch handle or a tool on deck, it only bounces. It doesn’t chip the paint.
Another benefit is that it isolates the deck plating from the sun to the extent that you can comfortably walk on deck in bare feet, even at the equator. This, of course, also insulates the plating from over heating the cabin. (We also have 1.5″ of sprayed urethane foam on the underside of the deck plate).
The last benefit was that it was very economical. The rubber was given to us by a tire re-treader at no cost.
2) BULWARKS
We constructed high bulwarks the entire length of the deck. Forward it is up to 10″ high and decreases as it runs aft. Midships it is about 6″ above the deck. There are seven ample scupper holes each side to quickly unload a shipped sea.
3) LIFELINES
The stanchions are welded to the deck as well as the bulwark. They are extraordinarily tall and the top lifeline is 32″ above the deck. This is about 8″ higher than standard. This hits my hip high rather an mid thigh. The lower lifeline is 18″ above the deck which leaves only an 8″ gap between the top of the bulwark and the lower lifeline. Compare the photo of Marina on the foredeck with the shots of LION’s foredeck in the report of the fatal accident to Christopher Reddish. The gap between the rail and the lower lifeline on LION is 11.4″ versus 8″ on SEA BEAR. http://www.flickr.com/photos/89011864@N06/8502668187/sizes/m/in/photostream/
These three details provide a deck that is very difficult to fall off. Yes, the bulwarks add additional weight and windage and I guess we have sacrificed a
fraction of a knot for getting there safely.
PETER
John February 25, 2013 at 9:19 am
Hi Peter,
Sounds like a great non-skid system that would rival our treadmaster. I totally agree with you that sureness of footing is vital, and too often overlooked.
And the idea of bulwarks is great, and again, too often neglected. Often there is nothing but a tiny lip at the edge of the deck and your point that high bulwarks reducing the distance between lifelines is one I had not thought of that makes a lot of sense.
Matt Marsh February 25, 2013 at 12:47 pm
For someone my size, anything less than 75 cm (30 inch) high is a trip wire, not a lifeline.
Good point about the bulwarks. If you have fallen and are sliding across the deck, you might slide over a 2″ toe rail (and under the lifelines) but would have a much better chance of being stopped by a 6″ to 10″ bulwark.
RDE (Richard Elder) February 25, 2013 at 6:59 pm
Hi Peter,
Couldn’t agree more on all counts. Yachts look sleek and sexy–seagoing voyaging boats have bulwarks and real life lines. When hard pressed I’ve always preferred to walk the leeward side rather than be 10 feet in the air on the high side where the motion is much greater.
I’ve suggest your deck coating system to several people who have terminally leaking teak decks and lack the funds to remove and rebuild them… No reason why you can’t buy 5 or 10 years and have a dry boat by using a thick, flexible coating system. However they just preferred to let their boat rot away—-.
Rorik February 25, 2013 at 5:28 am
I like my double tethers on my harness, but they’re both only a little over 3′ long. My jack lines roughly split the house top in thirds, starting at a padeye just forward of the end of the house on one side, through a padeye near the mast, down to the foredeck cleats and back up the other side of the house in the same manner. The mast also has an eye at boom height if I feel the need. There is a single padeye in the forward end of the cockpit. If I do fall, I can only slide as far as the next padeye. I can reach everything on deck except the far side of the lifelines. Thanks for all your articles; I’ve enjoyed reading them.
John February 25, 2013 at 9:23 am
Hi Rorik,
Sounds like you have a great system that works for you, which is really the ideal goal here. Personally I would find a 3 foot tether constricting, but there is no question that the shorter the tether the less change of getting dragged. I will be writing about how we ameliorate the risk of using longer tethers in a future post.
JAZ February 25, 2013 at 1:02 pm
Hi Rorik,
With regards to your 3’ tethers, did you have them custom made? The only ~ 3’ tethers I have found are mil spec Heavy Duty QR Personal Retention Lanyard from Yates gear.
“http://www.yatesgear.com/rescue/tactical/beltsLanyards/index.htm
I don’t care for the color of the lanyard but like the concept of the snap shackle using a using a shackle on the plunger instead of a ring on the harness side. Maybe a Kong on the jackline side ? Would really appreciate feedback on the Yates Personal Retention Lanyard
John February 25, 2013 at 3:40 pm
Hi Jaz,
We will be covering tethers, including custom ones, and the best snap shackles and carabiners to use in an upcoming post. Please hold this discussion until then. That way all of the good thoughts will be in one place.
Thanks
Rorik February 25, 2013 at 8:15 pm
Jaz,
I spliced up some 3/8″ Dyneema for the tethers. I know, I know, absolutely no shock absorption, but then, they are only ~3′ long. A tad longer than from the harness attachment point to the ground. They’re also very light, chafe resistant, don’t get waterlogged and feel very different from any other line on the boat. Walking on the side deck, they reach the jacklines which are about halfway between the edge of the house and the centerline of the boat.
Steve Guy February 25, 2013 at 11:00 am
I am very appreciative of my 6″ bulwarks and would specify them on a new boat. I wish I had 32″ lifelines.
Steve Guy
Daniel February 25, 2013 at 6:57 pm
John,
your system is very thorough and well thought out. So far I have been using a double tether with a long and short end. The tether line that is not used is clipped onto the rings of my harness, which means I always know where it is and can reach for it instantly. It also doesn’t dangle around my feet. Because my tether has Wichard hooks on both lines, I can clip that second tether line to the next anchor point with one hand and then unclip myself from the previous anchor point also with one hand, so that I am never uncliped and my spare hand can hold onto something else.
And that leads me to my question: with your system of multiple tethers, the clipping and unclipping is done at harness end of the tether, which means that you have to open and close a snap shackle. While opening it can be done with one pull, closing a snap shackle, especially if you need to pass it through the two D-rings on your harness, requires two hands, at least I do. What am I missing?
Also, why would you have two shorter jacklines on each side deck, vs one that extend from bow to stern?
Thanks
Daniel
John February 26, 2013 at 9:14 am
Hi Daniel,
Good questions.
With practice you can, and we do, close a wichard snap shackle with one hand. As to D rings, we don’t have them and don’t like them. This is one reason that we are currently using Spinlock lifejackets as harnesses, although that is up for review in a post coming up in this series.
Also keep in mind that in a typical excursion on deck we will only need to clip onto and off a new tether (the jackline tether) once going out of the cockpit and once going back, and that can be done while still sitting on the cockpit seat. If we change to the mast tether, say for reefing, that clip and unclip takes place after we are securely wedged in the mast pulpit bars.
The point being that none of these tether changes take place in a vulnerable situation, so even if two hands are required due, for example, to a sticky snap shackle, it does not matter.
We have two jacklines on each side because our boat has a center cockpit. I guess we could make it one jackline, right past the cockpit, but there would be no advantage since it would be obstructed by the sheets leading to the cockpit winches, and a big disadvantage in that there would be more stretch in the jackline. Finally, there is very rarely a reason to go forward and aft from the cockpit on a single excursion.
Dan Alonso February 25, 2013 at 7:41 pm
I’ll take that reefing race John! I’m a double tether in mast furling guy on my current boat, HR 49. LOL. I know your thoughts on in mast and it’s not the discussion here. I run a jack line “tightly” from the cockpit around my mast pulpits and back to the other side of the cockpit. Another tight line from mast to bow terminating at the inner forestay. My gear is getting tight at the lifelines with one clip change inside the mast pulpits. I live in my “Climbing” harness and step it up when it gets big. The safest gear is the one you use. I solo 75% on the time, I don’t believe in ever ever going over the lifelines. With that being said, I will re-evaluate. Systems can change from boat to boat and through changes in Tech. If the point is to get us thinking, Well done!
John February 26, 2013 at 9:20 am
Hi Dan,
I might still surprise you in the reefing race. A good slab reefing system like ours is surprisingly quick to use. Also, you don’t need to round up to unload as you do with most in-mast systems. So with both boats on a broad reach and preventers rigged I might easily give you a run for your money.
I climbing harness is an interesting idea. My worry would be the time to get into it securely at 3:00 am, when I’m not at my best, with a full suit of heavy foul weather gear on and several layers under that. Also, how comfortable is it to sit around in for a four hour watch? Finally, what about the risk of ending up hanging head down?
Carolyn Shearlock February 25, 2013 at 9:58 pm
I like your multiple tether arrangement and wish we would have thought of it. We did the double tether deal and hated it.
Two comments:
1. After going back and forth about webbing jacklines vs. non-stretch line, we ended up doing a “both” solution: We ran the non-stretch line inside tubular webbing — the shackle ran very smoothly and the non-stretch didn’t suffer from UV.
2. We had a boom brake and simply ducked under it as we went forward (this may be one of those things that works on some boat’s configurations and not others).
We had similar rules to yours about when they were worn, although we said 10 knots. And the dog NEVER was unleashed on deck except at anchor, the free end was always secured (usually to a cleat, as she only weighs 7 pounds) and she wore a harness, not a collar that could break her neck. Yes, if you have a pet on board, you have to plan their safety just as much as yours!
John February 26, 2013 at 9:23 am
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for the comment, all good stuff and interesting about the dog.
The whole issue of jackline materiel and stretch is interesting and I will be getting into it in detail in the next post in the series. If would be great if you can be part of that discussion.
Dan February 26, 2013 at 2:39 pm
Hi John,
I’ll be nearby in Halifax in July for that reefing race. De-loading is a little time sucker.
The climbing harness has been an evolution. First I must admit that, in a fall you will be hanging from your waist not your chest. This can be a balancing problem but a risk I’m ok with. Then sleeping in it was not great so I took an older harness and cut it down to bare bones. This is great for sleeping but not ideal for a fall. I also have a full on ISAF compliant PFD. They are all easy to get into and I use the right one for the conditions. I feel that it’s irresponsible to not be tied in offshore and the restraint that saves me is the one I’m wearing.
I’ve heard that nearly all fatal man overboards that are recovered have their fly open.
John February 26, 2013 at 2:47 pm
Hi Dan,
Your on! Interesting on the harness options.
Nicolas Kats February 28, 2013 at 8:42 am
Jacklines in my view & on my boat are not needed.
When moving around on deck my hands are free to hold on. If condition are bad, I use timing when I go. I have always felt safe doing this. It is important to develop this agility & confidence. It doesn’t take long. Not being agile is a huge negative.
On my boat I assess the main risks of going overboard in 4 ways:
Pissing over the side. To piss I walk up to the main lee shrouds & lean over, shoulders jammed against 2 shrouds, very stable.
Working the halyards. If unstable standing up, I lie down on deck on my back. This is very stable if a bit inelegant.
On the bowsprit working the foresail. If in severe conditions I wear a harnesss & hook myself to the boat, usually to the staysail stay.
Boarding seas. Twice solid water crashed down onto the boat when I was in the cockpit. I leaned into the water as it crashed down. My stability was perfect.
In none of these situations was a jackline needed. I wear a harness if feeling insecure for any reason & I can attach myself anywhere to the boat. My harness is on a hook, easy to get at, and I value this piece of equipment.
If a situation needs instant action, jacklines get in the way. Perhaps with practice this is not so, & it sounds like this is what you have done, John.
I used to have a jackline, but found that crew took all day to hook on & were constantly preoccupied with safety procedures, not with dealing with the situation. They tended to be paralyzed with procedure, even fear. Sailors have to be capable of instant action. People who don’t put the boat, the situation, first, are useful only as fair weather sailors.
Part of my difference with every one else on this post may arise from the fact that my boat is heavy displacement, low freeboard, full keel, 10″ bulwark. Lightweight boats with high freeboard & little keel tend to be vastly more unstable & dangerous. These boats never have a bulwark beacause it makes a high freeboard even higher. For these boats jacklines may well be necessary.
I cut up my jackline & use part of it as a towing strap for my car. Less is more.
John February 28, 2013 at 9:29 am
Hi Nick,
Thanks for a well reasoned and interesting comment. As I said in the second post in this series, I, for one, would not criticise another seaman’s approach as long as it is the result of thought and experience, which yours obviously is, and not laziness and inattention to risk.
I think, in the final analysis we both have the same goal: to be and feel secure in such a way that we can respond quickly and effectively to the needs of our boats.
Dick Stevenson February 28, 2013 at 11:41 am
Nicolas,
There is some I agree with in what you say about ability to be agile and to find ways to run the boat and relieve yourself with some degree of safety without a tether to jacklines. For yourself, I am very much of a mind that you are making reasoned and thoughtful decisions. That you have crew would worry me as they are not so experienced with the holdfasts to connect to on your vessel when jacklines are not available (and likely not so experienced at sea).
I do write primarily to address your contention that sailors need to capable of instant action. In many ways I believe I know what you are referring to and agree, but I would suggest that while being capable of instant action, most of us would be well served by rarely taking instant action. I can think of few (I think none actually) instances in my sailing career where instant action was called for while I can certainly name a few jumps into instant action I regretted quickly. Offshore I try to move at 2/3rds speed and to never jump into things. I tether up to a jackline while trying to maintain the headset that you well describe in your comments. I do not wish to find out what it feels like to rely on the tether, but it will be there connected to the jackline when offshore, at night, etc.
Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
John February 28, 2013 at 12:14 pm
Hi Dick,
A really good point. I agree: in my experience, when something goes wrong at sea, 90% of the time a moment of thought, followed by slow and deliberate action saves the day. For me, knowing that I’m securely tethered helps me to concentrate on the problem at hand and makes me more effective, not less so.
Nicolas Kats March 2, 2013 at 7:15 pm
Dick, sometimes I encounter situations where I choose to move fast. Severely luffing sails, about to jibe, caught in irons off a lee cliff without the space to jibe (I never made tha mistake again), broken steering cable or other equipment, or sometimes just for the pleasure of it. Perhaps the fastest I’ve moved was running back from the bow to take the wheel from a new & terrified crew who was trying to jibe in a gale.
Just examples. I agree with you & John. I need to be clear in head & often this requires thought first. When I move it is rarely at full tilt.
I cherish & deeply enjoy the ability to jump into action instantly & the clarity of mind that goes with this. The alternative is to be sluggish of body & mind. Who wants to be like that?
We’re saying the same thing really.
On jacklines. No one else on this thread has pointed out that there are alternatives. I just did. Looks like there are no real objections. This means concurrence that in terms of safety concepts jacklines are optional, and not essential.
Bill Balme March 1, 2013 at 3:57 pm
Excellent system – up to now we’ve been using the double tether arrangement and hate it – moreover, our practice is to keep the tether attached to us – rather than keeping it (them) attached to the lines and padeyes – the downside of which is that when we go below, there’s ample opportunity to put dings in the woodwork caused by flying tether shackles! Thanks John – we will be adopting your methodology this year.
John March 1, 2013 at 7:19 pm
Hi Bill,
Yay, at last someone “gets it”… yippee, yahoo…
Bill Balme March 1, 2013 at 3:59 pm
You see quite a lot of discussion in various forums about POB… I don’t recall ever having heard from a POB that has been rescued by their own boat.
It would be good to hear from someone that has fallen in, how they fell in and what was it like being retrieved…
Hans March 2, 2013 at 9:00 am
I’d like to contribute a thought about peeing over the side. On Snowball that is strictly forbidden. In order to not end up as a DFO (Dead, fly open), I have a so called urinator, a simple cut off PET bottle which is often replaced at almost no cost. I pee into that and empty it over the side. When I have crew, it can be done discreetly with the back to them. I admit it’s a man’s solution, but the ladies go to the head anyway. One risk eliminated. Oh, and where do I stow the urinator when not in use ? In the bucket that is always tethered to the rail.
Jean Francois BRODIN March 3, 2013 at 12:58 pm
Thank you John for this very interesting post!
What do ypu think about attaching the harness to the topping or other halyard, as this allows going every where on deck?
I use this, plus thether.
Regards
John March 3, 2013 at 3:07 pm
Hi Jean Francois,
Hum…the honest answer is that I don’t know. I guess I would have to try it to be able to comment. My immediate worry is having a loose topping lift or halyard flapping around at sea. In my experience, once the boat is in a swell, a halyard only needs to be loose for about 30 seconds before it contrives to wrap itself around something up high and way out of reach in the rig. Also, what happens when you want to go forward past the mast? Surely you have to get the halyard around the spreaders each time?
Dan March 3, 2013 at 3:11 pm
I have to respond to Nicolas’s post. I held back on the first few Nicolas post because I do believe we are free to choose our systems. I sail big bad stuff alone and all the time. I’m a little bit of a rebel in terms of what many think is safe or wise, my choice. I solo to the first set of spreaders 25′ off the deck while underway/alone. I understand “do it know”. However, I’m a little worked up about your post Nick. Running around on deck in a gale. Rookies at the wheel? Slow down, tether up and DON’T gibe in a gale, it’s a choice. I say this with respect. I appriciate John’s appoach “to each his own” As in climbing, you won’t have a second chance. clip in. My opinion!
Nicolas Kats March 21, 2013 at 6:27 am
Hi Dan, I guess you need to know the story of this rookie. I first met him only 48 hours before, at the outset of the trip. We were introduced by Email. He lived in another country, so meeting up beforehand was out. I’m deaf & must lipread, so telephoning was out. We corresponded by Email. A man in his 60s, he spoke of 50+ yrs of sailing & of owning a few boats. Unasked he emailed me quite a few copies of certificates of a nautical character. Sounded OK, a coastal sailor of some experience.
The near gybe in the gale was the 1st real indication that there was a problem.
With the rising gale I asked him to take the wheel & keep her on a reach while I changed the headsail. Within a few minutes he started swinging her downwind. He ignored my gestures. I had to run back. The mainsail was lifting when I grabbed the wheel.
This instantly & totally destroyed my confidence in him In the next 2 weeks I gave him only easy responsibilities where if he messed up it was no big deal. He gybed half a dozen times in light winds & could not sort out the sails after gybing. He did other stuff that exceeded even my very low expectations. There were other problems, of a juvenile nature.
As an armchair sailor he knew a great deal & could outtalk me anytime. How he managed 50+ yrs sailing & boat ownership utterly eludes me to this day. I am sure he was not fibbing about his background. Curious how the water attracts all types. Hope you’re not so ‘a bit worked up’ now.
Cheers.
Dennis Fechner March 3, 2013 at 6:10 pm
I too use a chest high life line from the upper shroud to the stern pulpit at just the right height to provide balance into and out of the cockpit. Works like a charm. Does not work with a line going forward to the bow pulpit! So I use a line run from the tack back to the mast on the center line. This works as I can lean against it when on the foredeck and it is easy to go under or over. I don’t trip on it. I only use that off shore.
I like John’s idea of multiple tethers..maybe I will try it.
I use webbing and am thinking of running a length of spectra inside of it for less stretch
Bill Balme March 5, 2013 at 10:04 am
So, over the past week I’ve posted a new thread on several web discussion boards asking if anyone out there has fallen off their boat unintentionally – and then been picked up by their own boat.
There’s been lots of replies and several occasions where people have fallen off at the dock – but so far, not a single person has reported falling in at sea and subsequently been retrieved.
Reinforces the need to stay aboard – but makes me wonder if having a life jacket makes sense – if the inevitable is going to happen, perhaps I should let it happen quickly? (On the other hand, one should never give up I guess…)
I’m really hoping someone’s going to be able to relate a successful recovery story soon…