Equalizing Batteries, The Reality

JHH5-12590 As we have discussed in previous posts in this series, fully charging your batteries after each discharge on a live-aboard cruising sailboat is simply not practical. Instead, most of us will cycle our batteries between 50 and 80% of their capacity. The bad news is that this will, as we on Morgan’s Cloud have found to our cost, ruin your batteries in a distressingly short time.

Why Equalize

But there is an answer to this problem: regular equalization. Justin, our full-time in-house battery engineering consultant here at AAC World Headquarters (just kidding, he works for LifeLine Batteries), reckons that, in the case of an average cruising crew that cycle their batteries once a day, equalizing once a month will double to triple their expected battery life.

Big Savings

On Morgan’s Cloud we are projecting that regular equalization, together with the other changes we have made to our charging regime discussed in earlier posts in this series, will make our house bank of two 8D AGM batteries last three years or better of daily discharges. This would give us a cost per day of about US$1.70 instead of the $5.00 per day that the early death of our batteries has been costing us—well worth it. Of course, your mileage may vary.

Caution

If you equalize batteries that are not designed for such treatment or don’t follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for batteries that are, you are exposing yourself to risks that start at ruining your batteries and go on up to fire and explosion. Take this seriously, we kid you not!

How?

The voltages and times that we are quoting in this series are from the LifeLine battery manual and apply to their AGM batteries only. Make sure you use the right voltages and times for your batteries.

For our batteries, equalization consists of first charging our batteries to 100% at their optimal acceptance voltage of 14.4 volts—they are fully charged when the current (amperage) that each battery is accepting drops to 1% of total capacity or 2.5 amps—and then continuing to charge each battery at 15.5 volts for eight hours.

Gassing

In normal use, our LifeLine AGM batteries don’t release any gas that we have been able to detect, even when being charged at nearly 100 amps each. However, when being equalized, especially when badly sulfated, they do gas off to the point that on two occasions our propane alarm in the bilge, well below the level of the batteries, has gone off. So when equalizing, we open up the locker that the batteries are stowed in and open all the hatches and ports. If the weather is too crummy for the latter, we run a hose from one of our engine room blowers, that is configured to suck air out of the boat, to the battery locker, as shown in the photo below.

JHH5-12586

Make sure you do something similar when equalizing, since the gasses being released are primarily oxygen and hydrogen, a combination that when exposed to an ignition source, go boom in a really big way—could ruin your whole day!

It Takes a While

Assuming that we start this process with the batteries half discharged, it takes about five hours to bring them to full charge before we start equalization, which takes a further 8 hours for a total of 13. But wait, it gets worse. (You were waiting for me to write that yet again, so I could not disappoint.)

We still want to be able to get on with our lives while all this is going on and since our chargers, like many, won’t stay in equalization mode if they are required to supply more than a few amps, we have to equalize one battery at a time while we use the other for house loads. So now we are up to 21 hours. And we sure don’t want to be doing this while we sleep, so the entire process takes the best part of two days.

Shore Power is Required

JHH5-12590

We are certainly not going to run our generator for 21 hours. Not only would the fuel use be ruinous and environmentally irresponsible, running for that long at light load would be really bad for the generator itself.

Theoretically, we could use our main engine while on a windless passage since our Balmar regulator can be put into equalization mode. However, this would mean subjecting all of the electrical equipment on the boat that we require during a passage to a higher voltage than they were designed to take. While many modern devices have variable voltage power supplies that don’t care, some of the older stuff is going to have its life shortened by such treatment.

Given the above, it seems that we are condemned to cough up for at least one and probably two nights on shore power once a month or so. As they say in Newfoundland, we hates the face off that.

Monitoring

Given the inherent dangers, we take the following precautions while equalizing our batteries:

  • Don’t sleep while equalizing.
  • Don’t leave the boat unattended for more than a few moments.
  • Monitor the voltage at the battery being equalized to make sure that the charger does not malfunction and raise it above the recommended 15.5 volt level.
  • Monitor the temperature of the batteries to make sure that they are not getting hot, the first step to thermal run away.
  • Make sure that the batteries are properly ventilated (see above).

Equipment Recommendations

To make this work, at least the way we do it, you need:

  • Batteries that can be equalized—Duh.
  • The manufacturer’s specifications for equalization.
  • Battery chargers that have an equalization mode compatible with your batteries. In the case of our Xantrex Smart Chargers, we have to fool them by changing the selection switch to liquid filled before they will go into equalization mode. According to the Xantrex manual they will then put out 16 volts—half a volt too much for our LifeLine AGMs. But since our chargers only in fact put out 15.5-15.7 volts in equalization mode this is not a problem. (Actually, Justin tells us that his Lifeline AGM batteries are robust enough to take up to 16 volts when being equalized, although in that case the time should be dropped to six hours from the normal eight.)
  • A house battery bank split into two with a selection switch so that you can use one while equalizing the other.
  • Two battery chargers, each wired directly to each half of the bank, so that one can be equalising while the other is keeping the in-use battery fully charged, so that it won’t have to be recharged prior to equalization, which would add even more time to the whole performance.
  • Battery chargers that have sensors to monitor battery temperature while charging and equalizing. The reason being that the voltages we have quoted are nominal, in fact the correct voltages vary with battery temperature—lower when the batteries are hotter and higher when they are cooler.
  • A way to properly ventilate the battery space even when the weather is too nasty to keep the hatches open. At least if you are as nuts as us and spend time in places where the weather is frequently too nasty to keep the hatches open.

See, wasn’t that easy? Well, no not really. How do you get your batteries equalized, or do you? Leave a comment.

The Results

I’m please to report that the results of the two equalizations we have done to date have been nothing short of miraculous: The at-rest voltage on the batteries jumped nearly half a volt and their capacity returned to near as-new.

Further Reading

 

Series Navigation
<< Charging Batteries With An Alternator

Eleven Steps to Better Battery Life >>

{ 22 comments… add one }

  • Nick Kats October 8, 2010 at 6:02 am

    John

    I’m truly dumb when it comes to electricity, but I’m going to ask this – What about solar panels & windvanes? Won’t these top up the batteries? Solar panels & windvanes can be used at a marina – no need for shore power. My windvane is connected to a regulator to prevent overcharging of the batteries. My hard solar panel is small & is put out on deck when I’m away.

    What am I missing here ? (!!!)

    Thanks,

    Nick

    PS – The solar panel & the windvane terminate in clips (as in alligator clips, or jumper cables) which I can move from one bank of batteries to the other as needed. A brilliant idea suggested by an electrician friend.

    Reply
    • John October 8, 2010 at 7:34 am

      Hi Nick,

      You are not missing anything at all. Solar and wind certainly have their place. And for a boat with light electricity use they can, properly installed, solve most of the problems we are discussing here.

      However, for a situation like ours, where we typically use 200-250 amp hours a day, mainly due to computer usage to support this site and photography, as well as refrigeration, they would only make a real difference if we had a huge array of solar, or a really big wind generator(s). We don’t really have room for either, at least if they were installed in a seaman like way.

      Also, neither will effectively equalize a battery since this requires a constant voltage without the variation that solar and wind are subject to.

      Colin, AAC European Correspondent, uses solar and wind generation installed on the arch of his Ovni. Any comments Colin?

      Reply
  • Jay October 8, 2010 at 3:41 pm

    Isn’t equalizing the batteries a completely separate issue from the regular charge/discharge cycle that we all put the batteries through regardless of the number and kinds of charging capabilities we may have?

    Now I feel like I’m missing something in this ‘conversation’.

    On the topic of equalization; what happens when the batteries have to be left aboard for the winter while the boat is laid up? We have a couple of solar panels that will keep them topped up but there is no way to equalize them every month. Will we just suffer the loss of life at some point?

    Reply
    • John October 9, 2010 at 7:44 am

      Hi Jay,

      You only need to equalize monthly if you are discharging and then not fully charging daily. In fact if you have AGM batteries there is no need to keep the solar panels charging them since if they are not being used, they won’t self discharge over a winter.

      All this should be clear, I hope, if you read the full series of six posts. I know it is a lot of mind numbing detail but I have struggled mightily to cover a complex subject as completely as possible. Let me know if anything is fuzzy in my writing anywhere in the series.

      Reply
  • Chris Witzgall October 11, 2010 at 5:12 pm

    Hi;

    I have built one 24v 40ah LIFEpo4 lithium battery, and just bought a pre-made (DIY CLASS) 200ah 12v battery, which arrived today. I think these will be the standard batteries for many cruisers not too many years from now. Some highlights:

    -little to no Pekert effect. 1c+ charging and 3c discharging allowed.
    -1/2 of the weight
    -5x the cycling ability
    -no gassing, and no equalization
    -works with most charging sources. Since they are designed to be charged up higher than most marine charging sources, current stops flowing before they reach full charge, but the % lost not charging fully is minuscule.
    -Bulk charging extends up to 90%, and you can safely discharge 80% without grossly effecting the # of cycles. The cells I have in the Torqueedo pack are rated to 2000 cycles at 80% discharge, the Hipower brand cells in the 200ah 12v pack are rated to 1000 cycles at 100% discharge, I have not found their rating at 80% online yet. Thundersky brand cells are rated even higher.

    Cost? You can put together what I bought, a 200ah 12v pack with a Battery management system to protect both the cells and your alternator, for about $1200 cell cost and $450 BMS cost. This one weighs about 80lbs in a 4d battery box, and is set to replace 4, t-105 wet cells at 445ah capacity.

    Chris

    Reply
  • Matt Marsh October 11, 2010 at 11:51 pm

    Re. equalizing on solar/wind: With typical setups, I’d agree that equalizing from solar or wind power wouldn’t work. But I can’t think of any reason why a good buck/boost MPPT controller couldn’t be programmed to provide an equalization voltage from a solar or wind source. It should be just a matter of programming the unit’s microcontroller to allow a few different operating modes.

    Re. LiFePO4: It’s interesting to see those costs, Chris- they seem to be coming down dramatically. The current interest in electric cars is causing a lot of money to be poured into battery development, and I would consider it quite reasonable to expect the option of choosing between a wide range of traction batteries using half a dozen different chemistries within six or eight years’ time.

    Reply
    • John October 12, 2010 at 7:10 am

      Hi Matt,

      Thanks for the comment. I would really like the idea of equalizing with solar or wind. My worry was that the voltage would drop repeatedly below optimal as clouds or lulls in winds came though. Could you explain a bit more about these buck/boost controllers? Also, could you link to a brand that you like?

      I assume that they attempt to provide a constant voltage, although I would have still thought that the volts will drop if the total watts drop below that required to supply say 3 amps at 15.5 volts or 46.5 watts? Am I missing something?

      Perhaps solar would be better than wind in that I have often seen wind power go to zero multiple times in an hour as lulls come through?

      To make this work, I think you would need to split the battery bank in two and switch the charging feed back and forth so you could equalize one while using the other. But then we need to do that with our method, so nothing is lost there.

      I’m also thinking you would need to have a bank that was equal to four times your daily use to make this work. That is if you wanted to be able to live as normal during the equalization cycle.

      Reply
  • Justin Godber November 1, 2010 at 12:39 pm

    Justin again from Lifeline Batteries. Interesting posts. John, your article is right on about equalizing.
    Re: Equalizing using solar and Wind. This can be done but it just needs to remain constant for the full 6-8 hours. This is usually the down fall to equalizing this way. If you can find a way to have it remain constant and still push good amperage then by all means use that source.

    Re: LIFEpo4 or and Lithium Batteries for that matter. We have built and have been testing Lithium batteries for quite some time. You can see this link here where we have built one for the US Navy and got the contract for it:
    http://www.concordebattery.com/lion2.php
    You can also find a full sheet of the advantages and disadvantages here:
    http://www.concordebattery.com/lion.php
    In summary here is the limitations to the technology that we have found.
    •Requires protection circuit to maintain voltage and current within safe limits. Protection circuitry involves both additional hardware and software.
    •On aircraft battery monitoring and alarms will be required for safe operation.
    •Subject to aging, even if not in use – storage in a cool place at 40% charge reduces the aging effect.
    •Transportation restrictions – shipment of larger batteries may be subject to regulatory control.
    •Expensive to manufacture – about 40 percent higher in cost than nickel-cadmium.
    •Not a fully mature chemistry – metals and chemicals are changing on a continuing basis.
    •Extremely flammable electrolyte.

    Although we are working very hard to provide top quality products we are also very concerned about safety. Right now the lithium cells are very dangerous and very volitale. If they get the wrong scenario you don’t want to be anywhere around that battery. Lithium Ion cells if ignited can and will burn at 1,100 degrees F. Not only do they burn at that temperature they also create their own oxygen at the battery plates, which means you cannot put out the fire. The cargo plane that just crashed in Dubai caught on fire because of the Lithium batteries aboard. Lithium batteries can spontaneously ignite if the air gets hot enough. That’s what they think happened. They think when it was sitting on the runway the cargo hold got up to 135 – 140 degrees and they self ignited.
    We have come up with a non oxygen producing Lithium Ion but the electrolyte is still very, very flammable.
    There are new shipping regulations going into effect January 2011 for Lithium Batteries and they are expected to cost the Lithium industry 1 billion dollars more annually. This means the price of Lithium is going up next year, not down. Not to mention they are now considered Hazardous Cargo even when shipping ground.
    That still gives AGM batteries the best advantage.

    Reply
    • David January 30, 2012 at 7:16 pm

      Justin,
      The info on the current issues around Lithium batteries is very helpful. I wonder if you have also been testing the new TPPL (Thin Plate Pure Lead) chemistry/constructions, like the Odyssey batteries. In their own product literature they are described as AGMs, but they are actually quite different. TPPL batteries are said to have very high charge acceptance rates and handle very deep discharges. The chemistry is still lead acid, so it would seem like equalization would still be required, but maybe less frequently? Please comment if you’ve been exposed to those.

      John,
      Were TPPL batteries an option you considered, and if so what put you off of them?

      Thanks for this very helpful series of posts.

      Reply
  • Chris Witzgall November 1, 2010 at 1:16 pm

    Justin;

    You use the term Lithium batteries multiple times in your post. Knowing that there are multiple chemistries of Lithium cells, and they can be very different in their performance and safety characteristics, which ones are you specifically writing about?

    Chris

    Reply
  • Gert December 28, 2010 at 6:47 am

    So if I do not have access to shore power once a month, I should not go with AGMs, but with gel. I expect to have no shore power for montrhs at a time.

    Reply
    • John December 28, 2010 at 2:07 pm

      Hi Gert,

      Unfortunately, going with Gells won’t solve this problem either. Any lead acid battery, whether it be Gell, AGM, or liquid filled, will sulfate and fail very quickly if not regularly fully charged.

      In some ways Gells would be the worst choice since most Gells, perhaps all, cannot be safely equalized, so when they do sulfate there will be no way to get them back.

      The bottom line is that if you want long life from lead acid batteries you have to come up with a way to fully charge them regularly. If you can’t do that, as most live-aboards can’t, then regular equalization is the next best thing.

      See the second post in this series for more on this.

      Gert, it might be good for you to read through the comments on the posts in this series since some of our readers have come up with innovative ways to solve this basic problem, including using wind and/or solar to finish the charge or splitting the house bank in two so each gets two full charge cycles between discharges. Perhaps one of these ideas will work for you.

      Reply
  • Steve June 28, 2011 at 2:29 am

    Hi John,
    I believe a previous commentor tried to make this suggestion, but didn’t communicate it clearly. Let me try. If you have 2 house banks, could you use one bank to fully charge and equalize the other one (kind of like lifting yourself up by your shoelaces)? If each bank is 300 amps, to fully charge the offline bank from 85% to 100% would draw down the bank in use about 45 amps, plus some for inverter/charger inefficiency. To equalize add 3 amps per hour for 8 hours= 24 amps, plus inefficiencies. Say 80 or 90 amps out of the house bank in use. That is one hour of generator time with a 90 amp Iota charger ($400?) or a half hour if you stack 2 chargers. I hope there is a solution this simple…why won’t this work?

    Reply
    • John July 4, 2011 at 8:36 pm

      Hi Steve,

      I guess it’s possible, but it seems complex and inefficient. I would also worry about wiring complexity. Bottom line, the system detailed in this series of posts, while fairly simple, is working very well after 18 months.

      I also think that the efficiency loss would be far higher than you estimate.

      I think that you might want to look at solar or wind to do the final finish off charging or equalization.

      Reply
  • Steve July 5, 2011 at 12:03 am

    Hi John,
    I am very interested in your research on this topic as I have a similar situation with a 47′ aluminum Van de Stadt based at a wilderness cabin in Alaska, nearest shore power 12 hours away.
    AGM batteries are my first choice as I have an 8 kw generator that should be able to run at least 3 60amp chargers to take advantage of the high absorption rate of AGMs for bulk charging. Per my understanding of Justin’s post solar and wind are not consistent enough for a proper equalizing charge, but could charge the house bank in use.
    After both battery banks were charged to 85% the generator could be shut down, and the house bank in use would be used to power an inverter and small charger that would complete the charge of the offline bank to 100% (@15A for 6 hours=90A) followed by the equalizing charge of 6 amps at 15.5 v for 6 or 8 hours (48A) Total 138A into the battery being equalized, plus inverter use & inefficiency. Maybe a 50% discharge (200A) of the in use L-16 house bank at most, assuming no extra generator run time for projects, or solar, wind, or alternator charge off the main engine (160A) which gets used a lot in Alaska. So lots of surplus power available at certain times. Worst case of 52 discharges a year if done weekly. According to the tables it seems like it would extend the life of the batteries, even with the extra discharge cycles factored in. At least in theory. A selector switch would be needed to choose the house bank in use to power the inverter, which would run the small charger. Another switch would be needed to direct the charger output to the offline bank being equalized. A small dedicated charger for each bank may be even simpler. I will sketch it out and hopefully see what I have overlooked. Seems like it could be kept very simple. (I have lots of ideas, and am happy if only 1 in 10 is good and worth pursuing. And the only dumb question is the one you didn’t ask.) Any suggestions are appreciated.
    Steve

    Reply
    • John July 6, 2011 at 10:49 am

      Hi Steve,

      I’m sorry, but I can’t engage on technical subjects like this over this summer since we are in the middle of a very challenging science based voyage to Greenland.

      Reply
  • Joe Casey May 3, 2012 at 3:52 pm

    John, a number of years have passed since you worked with Lifeline to equalize your AGMs amd modify your charging methods. What was the result? Are still using the same AGMs? Also, if you are still in contact with Justin (and he is watching this site) I would love to hear his opinion about equalizing East Penn (Deka) AGMs. The factory says no, but it sounds like the ‘conventional guidance’ that Justin referred to.

    BTW, we are on our second set of AGMs since 2002 but unlike you have been able to take advantage of ground charging resources. Our experience suggests that on-board generators are not necessarily the answer.

    Thanks
    jtc

    Reply
    • John May 5, 2012 at 11:46 am

      Hi Joe,

      Here is our latest update. The news is good.

      I really can’t comment on equalizing Deka batteries and I don’t think it is really fair to ask Justin to do so either. As I understand it, East Penn specifically say that their AGM batteries should not be equalized. Anyone going against that would be taking on a huge liability if anything went wrong, such as a fire or explosion.

      The bottom line for us, based on our testing, is that any battery that can’t be equalized does not belong on a voyaging sailboat.

      Reply
  • Chris September 2, 2012 at 11:45 am

    Great info! The equalization makes sense and it looks like a real battery saver. My question pertains to a 48VDC (or 24 VDC) system which is comprised of multiple batteries in series. Do you need to equalize each battery individually? Or does this happen “naturally” based on all batteries are in series together.
    Thanks, great website.
    Chris

    Reply
    • Mark January 23, 2013 at 11:55 am

      Hi Chris,

      Seems no-one wants to answer your question so here goes;

      It would not be necessary to equalise separately, the voltages applicable to the 12v system can just be multiplied for series connected batteries eg;

      12v > 15.5
      24v > 31.0
      48v > 62.0

      Mark

      Reply

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