One of our new snubbing lines and hook, with a standard hook for comparison
During our time in the Rias of Galicia we’ve enjoyed many comfortable nights at anchor. But as is the case in any area surrounded by hills we’ve had plenty of wind at times, rolling down off those same hills, or funnelling down the valleys. We had one memorable night where despite the fact that we had some shelter, the gusts were blasting ferociously around a small promontory to windward, obviously due to a curious land effect. And although we were well sheltered from any sea, some of the gusts were fierce enough to send Pelerin swinging around her anchor.
Not conducive to sound sleep, but made easier by the fact that we had a really long nylon snubber attached to the chain, soaking up the strain in the gusts, and stopping any shock loadings on the anchor.
Looking around some of the anchorages here, it’s evident that not everyone shares that enthusiasm. If snubbers are attached at all, many of them are fastened to the cable just a couple of feet down, which will be just enough to take the load off the windlass. Not that that is a bad thing in itself, as it can avoid damage to the mainshaft of the windlass, but it’s far from enough to allow the snubber to stretch sufficiently to absorb shock loadings from strong winds or swell. And as Alain Fraysse has shown in his extensive dissertation on anchor cables stopping shock loadings can be essential in difficult conditions if the anchor is to stay well set.
At all times we carry at least two snubber lines of 16mm 3 strand nylon. These are 20m (66ft) each and we’ve always used simple stainless agricultural chain hooks to attach the snubber to the chain, and these have never let us down. However, we have heard of the odd occasion when one has dropped off the chain, defeating the object of the snubber, so when we came to replace one of them this time we went for a Wichard hook which has an integral spring loaded pin that is designed to ensure that the hook cannot fall off. These aren’t as hefty as the standard hooks, but should be more than adequate for the job, although I’d have to say that the locking pin looks a little small to my eyes.
In the gusts the other night we had around 40 ft of snubber out and allowed a good bight of slack in the chain. We then watched the snubbing line stretch out amazingly as the real blasts came through, taking up almost all of the slack in the chain, but at no time did the chain come up taut.
A second snubber would probably have been a good idea and I think that might be where the Wichard hook with its locking clip could prove useful. Sometimes it’s difficult to keep the same tension on with two snubbers, and that might allow one fitted with a normal hook to fall off – we’ll see, but if anyone has any experience of this or opinion on these new hooks it would be good to hear them.
Paul Mills July 22, 2010 at 10:13 am
Hi Colin,
We also anchor a lot – in fact 9 of the last 14 nights. I too use a snubber, ours is 12mm and appropriately stretchy. Unfortunately there are two issues with it. Firstly I made it too short at 15 metres, which means in strong gusts it can ‘run out of stretch’. Secondly we have the same hook as you have just replaced – and ours too ‘drops off’ at times – which is a real pain. Whilst the Ovni roller system is very strong – being all aluminium and welded it is also noisy in the forecabin! So, I am looking for a replacement hook and will keep an eye out for the Wichard one; when I find it, some longer rope will also join our selection.
Enjoying the best summer weather for years in the Solent
John July 22, 2010 at 10:15 am
Hi Colin,
Great post. On chain hooks, we used to use one, but found that from time to time it would drop off. For the last 10 years we have just attached the snubber with a double rolling hitch and never had a problem.
Victor Raymond July 22, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Colin,
I recently made an anchor bridle out of 40 ft. of 3/4 inch 3 strand. In the middle I placed my hook and made it permanent with whipping line. I placed a bowline at both ends large enough to fit through and around my bow cleats which are about 8 ft. from the anchor roller. I pass the bridle around and under the chain through fairleads on either side of the bow roller assembly and then to the cleats on port and starboard. After all is assembled I let out the chain sufficient to put all the load on the bridle and then some. In addition I put a short snubber on the chain just past the windlass just in case.
I, too, have had the hook fall off the chain and was interested in the Wichard hook. I also think Steve Dashew recommends using knitting twine that would hold the hook in place but would fail if you needed it stowed quickly.
I used now about a half dozen times and it works quite nicely. Eventually I plan to replace the bowlines with properly spliced loops at the two ends.
I am intrigued by John’s even simpler solution and the length of line that you use. I have not experienced such conditions as you describe so I am not sure if I have enough or too little line.
Colin Speedie July 24, 2010 at 10:28 am
Hi Paul; I’d agree that a longer line might be better, especially if you ever use it from (say) a spring cleat to shear the boat. It might also be the case that a heavier (14mm 0r even 16mm) might stretch less – we reckon ours is about right for the 435.
The standard bow rollers are too narrow for the cheek plates, and so ‘knock’ when the boat swings and the load comes onto the snubber. We had a new, larger diameter roller made for the port channel, the same radius as the inside of our Rocna anchor, and had it made wider to fit the cheek plates better. We have sacrificial elastic line between the sides of the starboard roller and the cheek plates, and so there’s no noise from it now. Hardly engineering, but it’ll do fine until we are stopped for long enough to have another roller machined!
Victor, sounds like a good set-up, but as Paul notes it’s amazing how these lines can stretch, so longer might be good. We don’t put eyes in our lines, simply so that we can adjust them to suit. In normal conditions we probably would put 10ft or so out, but as the wind gets up we progressively let out more.
John’s solution is simple and elegant, but I take note of his point of double rolling hitches – singles can come undone when not under constant load. But I still like hooks!
Best wishes
Colin
Norris July 26, 2010 at 12:28 pm
Hi Colin,
Interesting ideas on snubbers. We always use a snubber (aprox 40 ft), usually with 10 ft let out in light to normal winds. If it starts to blow hard, we put out more. The double rolling hitch is our choice – it never falls off, plus any reasonable line will do the job in a pinch. Years ago we had a hook fall off (again) while anchored in a blow at Shelburne while on our way home to Newfoundland. It was not nice.
I’ve never trusted the chain hook since.
Bob Tetrault May 18, 2011 at 9:14 pm
Hello to all, I have used snubbers for years and will now lengthen my storm snubber based on what I have read here. Regarding the attachment; we used rolling hitches for years but often needed to cut the line due to severe drying of the hitch. The cut adds to the time needed to clear the snubber always when the weather is at its worst. We have gone back to a 1/2″ galvanized chain hook. To prevent it from falling off we use heavy elastic bands, the ones you use around the leg of your oil pants to keep out the green water on a bad day. I load them on the hook doubled over and then once deployed over the tip of the hook and down the backside a ways until snug still doubled. I keep several loaded on the hook as spares. When retrieving the hook I bring the hook to the roller and either cut or slip the band back off the tip of the hook. I’ve used this method for a couple of years now with 100% success. The breaking strength of the other hooks on the market is quite scary compared with the simple chain hook. For those who do not know, Sea Return is a Pearson 530 at approx 52,000 lbs. Our primary anchor is a Rocna 55, our chain is Acco 7/16″ G4. The other tactic I use in a blow is a deeply reefed mizzen fully battened and very flat. The boat will sit head to wind and quiet in a big breeze. I had my sailmaker custom build the mizzen with this use in mind, the thing is bulletproof. Minimizing the shock loads is key to successfully hunkering down. Bob Tetrault S/V Sea Return
jeff December 15, 2012 at 4:41 pm
Sorry for the late response to this thread but I just came across it…
A question: my snubbing hook has repeatedly slipped off the chain so it got me to wondering why a locking caribiner (with an eyelet) isn’t used for this purpose. They’re available in the Wichard catalog. Thoughts?
Jeff
John December 16, 2012 at 10:40 am
Hi Jeff,
I had not thought of using a caribiner. You would need to check that such a fitting, that would fit through the chain links, was as strong as the chain, I’m guessing not.
But there is a much easier way: Simply attach the snubber to the chain with two rolling hitches, one behind the other. We have been doing this for 15 years and have never had a problem, even in hurricane force winds.
Jim April 6, 2013 at 3:27 pm
Hello John,
Just a brief background from a first time participant.
We have a 2000 Hunter 410, weighing about 12 tons, that is our third boat. We purchased her in 2010 and have been preparing for departure from Lake Michigan, where we have sailed for the last 15 yrs, thru the St Lawrence to the Keys and Caribbean this winter. We usually anchor but in the Great Lakes we seldom see chain rode. I am in the process of putting together a chain rode and snubber system. I just bought a 66lb Sarca Excel that I plan on using with a 150 ft of 5/16″G4 chain and 150 ft of 5/8 3-strand rode.
My questions are mostly about the snubber.
Is double braid suitable snubber line? It doen’t seem like it would have the shock absorbing ability but I was told it is used.
Since the rode for our boat is 5/8″ 3 strand would you use that size snubber also? Other than whipping the ends is there anything you do to make it eaiser to tie a rolling hitch with that size line?
I have a Mantus chain hook to use on either a single or double 3/4″ x 25′ 3 strand snubber for those bad times with lots of scope. Would 3/4″ not have enough stretch for our displacement?
I also have a Victory chain hook to use ahead of the windlass to protect it if something goes wrong with the snubber. Would using the same size line as the snubber be a good idea?
How is your leg healing? It sure sounded like a gut wrenching ordeal!
Thanks for the help.
John April 7, 2013 at 7:27 am
Hi Jim,
To answer your questions:
Colin Speedie April 7, 2013 at 9:13 am
Hi John (and all others)
A brief update on the Wichard chain hook, which we’ve now used hundreds of times.
My first impression (as above) that the spring loaded pin is too small has proved correct, as we’ve bent it on two occasions now. It’s then a real pain getting it off the chain, which you wouldn’t want to happen if you were trying to clear out in a hurry. As such we’re going back to our old farmers versions for our No 1 snubber, i.e.the first of two that takes most of the punishment in really windy conditions. As the second snubber is less likely to be under tension most of the time, and so is more likely to fall off, we’ll use the Wichard for that snubber.
I think there are other applications where the Wichard hook has merit, though – please look out for a future post where I hope to demonstrate one of them.
Best wishes
Colin
Gunther April 23, 2013 at 2:51 am
Hi All,
Re the problem of having the hook come off. We’ve just simply attache a little rubber band on the standard chain hook. This ensures the hook to stay in place and still can be detached at a moments notice in an emergency.
Best regards,
Gunther
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